
Dealer warranty refers to the warranty provided by the 4S store or dealer where the car was purchased, and it does not qualify for nationwide warranty coverage. Generally, the car warranty period is the time frame promised by the car manufacturer to consumers when selling the product, during which free repairs and maintenance are provided for faults caused by quality issues. Most car manufacturers now implement a new vehicle warranty period of "two years or 60,000 kilometers, whichever comes first." This means there are two conditions for the warranty period: one is a time limit of two years, and the other is a mileage limit of 60,000 kilometers. If either of these conditions is met, the vehicle's warranty period is considered expired, and normal maintenance and repairs will no longer be free. In addition to specifying the warranty periods for various components of the car, almost all car brands' impose conditions on the warranty. If the following situations occur, the owner will not be eligible for free warranty services: 1. Failure to perform maintenance as required: If the owner does not take the new car to the designated 4S store or the manufacturer's authorized service station for regular maintenance within the specified mileage, any issues that arise will require the owner to pay for repairs, even if the car is still within the warranty period. 2. Unauthorized modifications to the vehicle: "No warranty for modified cars" is a common policy among almost all manufacturers regarding warranty issues. Some brands even stipulate in their warranty terms that if the owner changes the vehicle's purpose for use in rental, leasing, or competitive racing without authorization, it will be considered an automatic forfeiture of warranty rights.

Having worked in the automotive industry for so many years, I've encountered fuse issues quite a few times. A fuse is a small component designed to protect electrical circuits. When there's a sudden surge in current, such as from a short circuit or equipment failure, it melts and breaks the circuit, much like a self-destructing wire, preventing greater damage and avoiding burned-out wiring or even fires. Thinking back to earlier car models, fuses were the glass tube type, requiring careful handling to avoid broken pieces. Nowadays, most are plastic plug-in types, clearly labeled with their amperage in the fuse box, making replacement as simple as pulling out the old one and plugging in a new. They're usually located in the fuse box, either in the engine compartment or under the driver's seat. It's good practice to check them regularly—don't wait until the headlights go out to start worrying. Safety is no small matter; after a fuse blows, it's important to investigate the cause thoroughly, whether it's aging wiring or another issue.

I often help friends with car repairs. The principle of fuses is simple: when the current exceeds the standard, it sacrifices itself to break the circuit. Common types include blade-type and glass tube-type, with modern cars mostly using labeled plug-in types for easy identification. During inspection, first locate the fuse box and use tools to test or look for signs of melting. Reasons for melting vary, such as a stuck fan motor causing overheating or modified lights consuming too much power. Don't casually replace with higher amp fuses, as it may damage other components. Timely solutions can prevent battery drain or more serious electrical failures, and DIY replacement can save on repair costs.

As an ordinary car owner, the fuse protects the safety of my beloved car. Essentially, it is a small protective device that automatically cuts off the circuit when abnormal current occurs, preventing damage to electrical components such as the air conditioner or headlights. It is located in the car's fuse box, and you can find it by checking the manual. If it blows, it usually signals external interference like moisture or wiring wear. It's recommended to test with a multimeter before replacing it. Keep it simple and don't let small issues become big problems.


