
A CV joint, or Constant Velocity joint, is a crucial component in your car's drivetrain that transfers power from the transmission to the drive wheels while allowing for steering and suspension movement. It's most commonly found on the front axles of front-wheel-drive vehicles, but is also used on the rear axles of all-wheel-drive and some independent rear suspension setups. The key to its name is that it maintains a constant rotational speed regardless of the angle, which is essential for smooth power delivery without vibration.
You'll typically find two types of CV joints on each front axle: an inboard joint that handles the back-and-forth plunging motion as the suspension travels, and an outboard joint near the wheel that accommodates the sharp angles required for steering. The most common failure symptom is a loud clicking or popping noise when turning, especially under acceleration, which indicates a worn-out outer joint. Other signs include a vibration during acceleration or a torn rubber CV boot, which is the protective cover that keeps grease in and contaminants out.
| CV Joint Failure Symptom | Typical Cause | Consequence if Ignored |
|---|---|---|
| Clicking noise when turning | Worn-out outer joint balls/races | Joint can seize or break, leaving car immobile |
| Grease slung around wheel well | Torn or damaged CV boot | Contaminants enter, grease leaks out, rapid joint wear |
| Vibration during acceleration | Worn inner joint or lack of lubrication | Driveshaft imbalance, damage to transmission seals |
| Knocking sound on take-off | Excessive play in the joint | Complete joint failure, potential loss of vehicle control |
| Grease on the underside of the car | Cracked inboard joint boot | Similar to outer boot failure, leads to joint deterioration |
Replacing a CV axle assembly is a common repair. While the part itself isn't always exorbitantly expensive, labor costs can vary. Addressing a torn boot early by just replacing the boot and repacking it with grease is a much more affordable repair than waiting for the joint to fail completely and needing a whole new axle.

Think of it as the shoulder joint for your car's wheels. On a front-wheel-drive car, it's what lets the wheels get power from the engine while you're turning the steering wheel. When it goes bad, you'll hear a tell-tale clicking sound on sharp turns. Don't ignore that noise—getting it fixed quickly is way cheaper than having it snap on you later.

From a technical standpoint, the CV joint solves a fundamental problem: delivering torque at a variable angle. Unlike a simple U-joint that causes speed fluctuations, the CV joint's design, with its ball bearings and races, ensures the input and output shafts rotate at the same velocity. This is critical for smooth operation in modern independent suspension systems. Its primary enemy is contamination after the protective rubber boot tears.

I just had mine replaced last month. The first sign was this awful grinding click every time I pulled into a parking spot. My mechanic showed me the torn rubber boot; all the special grease had flung out and dirt got in, grinding the joint down. It was a pretty straightforward fix. The peace of mind knowing my wheel won't lock up is worth the couple hundred bucks.


