
Erasing diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) from your car's computer simply clears the warning light but does not fix the underlying problem. The car's PCM (Powertrain Control Module) will immediately begin running its self-diagnostics again. If the issue persists, the code and check engine light will almost certainly return, often within a few driving cycles. The only time erasing codes is a valid step is after a repair has been completed to confirm the issue is resolved.
The immediate effect of clearing codes is resetting the vehicle's emissions readiness monitors. These are a series of self-tests the PCM performs on systems like the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors. Until these monitors complete their cycles, your car will not pass an emissions test, even if no light is on. This process can take from 50 to 100 miles of mixed driving under specific conditions.
Attempting to erase codes to sell a car or pass an inspection is ineffective and potentially dangerous. A persistent code indicates a real problem, which could range from a loose gas cap to a serious misfire that could damage the catalytic converter. Using an OBD-II scanner to read the codes provides the specific data needed for an accurate diagnosis before any action is taken.
| Code Type | Example Code | Likely Cause | Will It Return After Erasure? | Typical Repair Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P0442 | Evaporative System Small Leak | Loose/Missing Gas Cap | Yes, if leak remains | $0 - $200 |
| P0300 | Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire | Faulty spark plugs, coils | Yes, immediately | $200 - $600 |
| P0420 | Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold | Failing catalytic converter | Yes, after monitors run | $1,000 - $2,500 |
| U0100 | Lost Communication with ECM | Wiring harness issue | Intermittent, may return | $150 - $500 |
| P0128 | Coolant Thermostat Rationality | Thermostat stuck open | Yes, after drive cycle | $200 - $400 |
The proper procedure is to read the codes, diagnose the root cause, perform the repair, and then erase the codes to verify the fix was successful. If the light does not return after several drive cycles, the repair was likely effective.

You're basically just turning off the warning light. The car's computer knows something's wrong, and you're telling it to be quiet for a minute. But it's going to check again. If the real problem—like a bad sensor or a leak—is still there, that light will pop right back on. It's like ignoring a "low fuel" warning; you can't see it for a bit, but you're still going to run out of gas. It might also mess up your ability to get an emissions sticker until you drive it around for a while.


