
Wheel offset refers to the distance from the inner mounting surface (mounting face) of the wheel to its centerline, which can be categorized as positive offset, negative offset, or zero offset. Characteristics and applications of negative offset: Negative offset means the mounting face is positioned inward (toward the brake system) relative to the wheel centerline. "Deep-dish" style wheels often have negative offset, commonly seen in SUV models and some BMW vehicles. Characteristics of zero offset: Zero offset means the two surfaces coincide. Characteristics and applications of positive offset: Positive offset means the mounting face is positioned outward. Wheels with positive offset are typically used in front-wheel-drive and some rear-wheel-drive vehicles.

I did some research on this ET value issue when I modified my wheels before. Simply put, the offset is the distance between the wheel mounting surface and the centerline. For example, I measured the original wheels, and ET45 means the wheel is recessed inward by 45mm. When changing to aftermarket wheels with a smaller ET value, the wheels will protrude outward, making them look fuller and more stylish. But be careful not to go too extreme—when I changed to ET35 on my car, I clearly felt the wheelbase widened, which actually reduced cornering stability and worsened wet-weather grip. The safest approach is to measure the distance from the original wheel to the fender with a tape measure, calculate the desired protrusion, and then choose the wheels accordingly. This way, you get both good looks and safety.

I remember when I first started restoring classic cars, I got burned by the ET value. I found a set of beautiful wheels, but after installing them, I realized the tires were rubbing against the brake calipers. Actually, the offset is the distance between the wheel's mounting surface and its centerline—the smaller the number, the more the wheel sticks out. A mechanic taught me to use a steel ruler placed vertically against the brake disc to measure the distance to the wheel edge. The stock ET was 50, and the ET38 wheels I installed protruded 12mm more. Always check the factory specs before modifying—rear wheels have more space and can handle a few extra millimeters, but you need to be careful with the front wheels. Now, I always bring calipers when shopping for wheels, since wheels sticking out too far can rub the suspension, and sitting too inward can still interfere with the brakes.

Last time I helped my neighbor deal with the issue of tire wear, it involved offset. After he changed the rims, the wheels were too far inward—the ET58 value was 10mm higher than the factory setting, equivalent to the rim being recessed by a whole finger's width. With all four wheels pulled inward, the narrower track width caused the inner edges of the tires to wear out much faster. When modifying, I usually measure with my fingers: after turning the steering wheel to full lock, there should be at least three fingers' space between the rim and suspension for safety. The rim shop owner always says a difference within 5mm is ideal—it maintains factory handling while improving aesthetics, and those extreme ET20 modifications are purely for static car shows.

Last week, while helping my cousin choose wheels, I realized that the offset (ET) had a bigger impact than expected. Different vehicle models have different ideal ET values. His original ET42 wheels had about 40mm of clearance from the brake calipers. After switching to ET35 wheels, the most noticeable change was a 20% increase in steering wheel heaviness due to the increased steering torque from the lever principle. A mechanic with 20 years of experience taught us to check wear: wheels sticking out too much will fling mud onto the body, while wheels tucked in too much will accumulate brake dust inside the wheel arches. For a flush fit, SUVs typically choose an ET value 15 less than the factory setting, while sedans are best kept within an 8mm adjustment range.


