
Vehicles that are severely damaged or in poor technical condition and cannot be repaired, which meet the national scrapping standards or, although not meeting the national scrapping standards, have severely damaged engines or chassis and fail to comply with the national motor vehicle safety technical conditions or the national motor vehicle pollutant emission standards, need to be scrapped. Below is relevant information about vehicle scrapping: 1. Introduction: Vehicle scrapping refers to the process of discontinuing the use of a vehicle when its mileage or service life reaches the prescribed limit. 2. Vehicle Scrapping Age Limit: The vehicle scrapping age limit is a safety inspection system based on the number of seats and the period of use of the vehicle. According to regulations, small and micro non-operating passenger vehicles, large non-operating cars, and wheeled special-purpose machinery vehicles have no usage age limit.

I've been in the auto repair industry for over a decade and have seen all kinds of total loss cases. Simply put, it's when repair costs are outrageously high or the vehicle body is severely damaged. National standards suggest scrapping when repair costs exceed 80% of the vehicle's actual value, or when critical components are damaged. Things like deformed engine compartments, bent longitudinal beams, or broken A/B/C pillars make it hard to guarantee safety even after repairs. I once encountered a flood-damaged car that was declared a total loss by insurance because all the wiring was rusted beyond repair. But the final decision depends on the DMV's evaluation report, which mainly considers body frame integrity and safety performance. Oh, and don't forget to complete the deregistration process when scrapping a vehicle, otherwise you won't be able to buy a new car later.

I've handled quite a few insurance claims, and whether a car is considered totaled mainly depends on repair costs. Insurers typically use the 50% rule: if repair expenses exceed half the vehicle's actual value, it's declared a total loss. For example, if your car is worth 100,000 and the repair quote is 80,000, it should definitely be totaled. New energy vehicles are even more sensitive - if the battery pack is deformed in a collision, it's basically a write-off. Note that even if the exterior looks fine, damage to the VIN location or complete airbag deployment also qualifies as a total loss. Last time I helped a client with an accident car, the dealership's repair bill was higher than the used car value - in such cases, it's wiser to take the insurance payout and get a new car.

I've been playing with used car modifications for almost ten years, and from a practical perspective, the scrapping standards are quite reasonable. The key is to assess the extent of damage to the vehicle's frame and whether its safety performance meets the requirements. If the main beam has been deformed and repaired, the car will always feel unstable when driving; water-damaged cars have hidden electrical issues that can never be fully fixed. Not to mention those that have been smashed from a three-box into a two-box design, with the rear panel completely collapsed. Many people don’t realize that while replacing body panels is easy, the strength of welded joints drops significantly once they rust. So, my advice is to scrap any car with damage to its core structural components—driving such a vehicle is just too risky.


