What Causes Vehicle Pulling Even with Correct Wheel Alignment Data?

[McMarley]

Here are the reasons why a vehicle may still pull to one side despite having correct wheel alignment data: 1. Unequal tire pressure: When the four wheels or wheels on either side have different air pressures, it causes variations in wheel size, affecting the vehicle's balance and inevitably leading to pulling. 2. Inconsistent or failed shock absorber damping: If a vehicle's shock absorbers fail or have inconsistent damping, it results in uneven suspension height during driving, causing uneven force distribution on both sides of the vehicle and consequently making it pull. 3. Uneven brake force distribution: When any wheel's brake has poor return or incomplete separation, it continuously applies force to that wheel while driving, causing the vehicle to pull. 4. Abnormal chassis clearance: Excessive wear in the vehicle's chassis components creating abnormal clearances can also lead to vehicle pulling.

[GiselleMarie]

I've encountered this situation many times. The four-wheel alignment data looks correct, but the car still pulls to one side. First, check the tires. A difference of more than 1 psi in tire pressure between the two sides can make the steering wheel feel heavy. Also, feel the tire treads. If one side is worn into a jagged pattern, it's called cupping, which definitely causes the car to pull. The suspension components need a close inspection too. If the control arm bushings under the chassis are cracked or loose, they can cause issues—I've poked at them with a pry bar, and worn-out bushings tilt easily with a nudge. Don't overlook the brakes either. A stuck brake caliper can make the wheel drag. The trickiest are cars that have been in accidents. Even if the frame alignment data is spot on, the steering wheel often feels like it's fighting you when driving.

[Marilyn]

Well, I once encountered this situation while helping a neighbor check their car. The alignment data showed all green, but the car would pull to one side when driven. Lifting the hood revealed signs of subframe bolt displacement. Raising the chassis for inspection made it even clearer—the steering tie rod ball joint had noticeable play when shaken by hand, and the rubber bushings, though seemingly intact, had lost their elasticity. Shock absorbers also need cross-comparison: have two people press down on all four wheel arches simultaneously, and those with inconsistent rebound speeds are basically done for. Another often-overlooked issue is wheel rim warping—simply swapping tire positions can immediately reveal the difference.

[XavierAnn]

Let me tell you, tires are the most frustrating part! When the tread depth difference between left and right tires on the same axle exceeds 2mm, it's like driving with a limp—especially noticeable at high speeds. Never mix tires from different brands—I've seen cars with Michelin on the left and Goodyear on the right, and the grip levels were completely mismatched. Tire pressure is even more critical. In summer, inflate cold tires to 2.5bar, but just a 3°C temperature difference between tires after driving can cause a 0.3bar pressure gap. Even with correct alignment specs, fatigue deformation in suspension components or worn springs causing a 0.5cm height difference between sides can pull the car—issues that alignment machines often fail to detect.