
Vehicle authentication failure and failure to start may be due to engine malfunction, and it is advisable to visit an auto repair shop for maintenance. Related information: Introduction: An engine (Engine) is a machine capable of converting other forms of energy into mechanical energy, including internal combustion engines (reciprocating piston engines), external combustion engines (Stirling engines, steam engines, etc.), jet engines, electric motors, etc. For example, internal combustion engines typically convert chemical energy into mechanical energy. Expansion: Engines are applicable both as power generation devices and can refer to the entire machine including the power unit (e.g., gasoline engines, aircraft engines). The engine was first developed in England, so the concept of the engine also originates from English, with its original meaning referring to "a mechanical device that generates power."

I've experienced this twice. The first time was in an underground garage when the car suddenly wouldn't start, and a key symbol popped up on the dashboard. After struggling for a while, I realized the car key battery was dead. Replacing the coin battery fixed it immediately. The second time was even weirder—I had just installed a wireless phone charger on the center console, and it interfered with the key signal. Moving the charger half a meter away solved the problem. Later, the mechanic told me that if the spare key didn’t work either, it was likely an issue with the antenna coil in the anti-theft system, especially in older cars where wiring tends to degrade over time.

I've previously researched this type of fault. Vehicle anti-theft authentication failures mainly occur at three levels: the key side, the vehicle body side, and the communication environment. The most common issues are a dead key fob battery or internal chip damage—placing the key against the start button might work as a temporary fix. Fault codes in the body control module require a diagnostic tool to check, such as issues with a loose coil receiver. Interference problems are often overlooked, like signal-blocking zones near banks or aftermarket high-power electronic devices. Once, I saw a dealership technician handle a Tesla owner's issue, only to find that the owner's newly purchased metal keychain was blocking the signal.

When the dashboard shows an anti-theft authentication failure, don't rush to call a tow truck. First, try opening the door with the mechanical key—some cars require inserting the key into an emergency slot. Then check the key battery and rub the key surface a few times with your hand (static electricity might interfere with the signal). Move all electronic devices to the back seat, especially phones and power banks. If the car starts but stalls immediately, it might be due to a vehicle anti-theft password reset failure. A mechanic specializing in German cars once told me that this issue in German cars is often caused by a weak battery putting the module into sleep mode.

The most frustrating part is encountering this situation in winter. Last month, my colleague's Nissan Qashqai failed to authenticate after being frozen overnight. Three methods were tried: 1. Pressing the lock/unlock button on the key fob five times repeatedly to reset it. 2. Disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for ten minutes to force a reboot. 3. Using the spare key—which ultimately worked. The 4S dealership explained that the primary key had previously been dropped in water and wasn't completely dried, causing it to malfunction in the cold. Nowadays, newer car features like fingerprint ignition and smartphone control actually increase the likelihood of authentication failures. Just last week, there was a case where an Li Auto L9's Bluetooth key stopped working due to an OTA update.

Once my car's smart key failed, and the rescue technician used a diagnostic tool to find that the contacts on the anti-theft control unit under the steering wheel were oxidized. Actually, there were early signs of this issue: occasionally, the hazard lights wouldn't flash when unlocking. If you notice the anti-theft red light on the dashboard flashing after the engine is off, or if the steering wheel lock is stuck and won't turn, it's most likely an anti-theft module problem. Experienced drivers know that modifying wiring to install a GPS tracker is the easiest way to cause trouble—my neighbor's Highlander had its body network protocol messed up after installing a cheap tracker. For diagnosis, it's recommended to start by reading the fault codes instead of blindly replacing the key.


