What causes the Volkswagen Skoda Octavia's horn not to sound when the key is not turned on?
2 Answers
Possible reasons include contact point erosion, moisture ingress due to poor sealing, and poor contact at the electromagnetic coil terminals. Contact point erosion: Prolonged pressing of the horn can easily lead to erosion of the horn's contact points, creating a certain level of impedance that weakens the current flowing through the electromagnetic coil (reducing the electromagnetic force). In this case, it becomes impossible to attract the armature to drive the diaphragm for normal vibration, resulting in a hoarse or completely non-functional horn. However, when the horn is pressed repeatedly, the instantaneous current generated may bypass the impedance caused by the eroded contacts, allowing the horn to function temporarily. Moisture ingress due to poor sealing: Although car horns are generally well-sealed, over time, this sealing can degrade. During interior cleaning, it's important to be cautious around the horn's location to prevent water vapor from entering. Moisture inside the horn can not only affect its sound quality but may also cause the horn to stop working entirely in severe cases. Poor contact at the electromagnetic coil terminals: In some horns, the electromagnetic coil terminals are not connected via soldering but are instead crimped with aluminum rivets. If the insulation coating on the enameled wire is improperly treated or the rivets are not crimped securely, poor contact (intermittent connection) can easily occur, leading to sporadic horn functionality.
As a driver with over a decade of experience, I've encountered many similar situations. The Skoda Octavia's horn not sounding when the key isn't turned is usually due to the car's electrical circuit design. Most modern vehicles are set up this way to conserve battery power or prevent accidental activation. If the horn still doesn't work after turning the key to the ON position, then a thorough check is needed: it could be a blown fuse—inspect the corresponding horn fuse in the fuse box and replace it if necessary; it might also be poor contact in the wiring, such as aging or corrosion in the steering wheel button switch, leading to signal transmission failure; or the horn itself could be damaged, with corroded contacts after long-term use, producing clicking sounds but no actual sound. I recommend starting with the simplest checks, like using a multimeter to measure the voltage and ensure the wiring is intact. If the cause remains unclear, promptly visit a repair shop for inspection to avoid being unable to signal in an emergency on the road. Safety is paramount, so don't delay.
