
Reasons for the vehicle pulling to one side while driving: 1. Uneven distribution of cargo. 2. Uneven tire pressure on both sides. The solution is to inflate both tires to the standard pressure and check if the wear on both wheels is uneven, leading to differences in wheel diameter and traction. 3. Uneven tread wear can cause pulling; inspect the springs and shock absorbers, especially on the lower side, for issues like insufficient spring elasticity causing excessive compression or shock absorber oil leakage. 4. Suspension damage, deformation, or misalignment can also lead to pulling. 5. The condition of the steering system affects the vehicle's straight-line driving. 6. Brake-related issues can also cause pulling.

I also encountered a steering pull issue last time I drove. The car immediately veered to the left when I took my hands off the wheel. This kind of problem can range from minor to serious, and I've experienced it several times myself. The most common cause is uneven tire pressure between the left and right tires, which can be detected with a tire pressure gauge. Last time, my front left tire was 0.5 psi lower than the front right. Wheel alignment is also crucial—even a 0.5-degree deviation in the toe angle can make the steering noticeably pull. The braking system should be checked too. A colleague's car had a pull issue because the left wheel brake caliper was stuck, causing uneven braking. Significant differences in tire wear can also be a hidden danger, so it's best to rotate the tires every 10,000 kilometers. Loose steering linkage ball joints are common in older vehicles and often come with a knocking sound when driving. All these issues need to be systematically checked to ensure driving safety.

As someone who frequently maintains vehicles, I believe steering deviation needs to be analyzed under three scenarios. Straight-road deviation is most commonly caused by tire issues—uneven tire pressure or significant wear differences between tires directly alter rolling resistance. Cornering deviation usually stems from suspension problems, such as leaking shock absorbers or aged/cracked lower arm bushings, leading to wheel misalignment. Braking deviation is 80% likely due to unilateral brake system failure, like rust-seized caliper pistons. I recommend car owners regularly check tire pressure with a personal gauge, ideally monthly. Wheel alignment shouldn't wait for problems—calibrate every 20,000 km or when installing new tires. For chassis suspension inspection, you can initially listen for abnormal noises by tapping components, but professional equipment testing is ultimately necessary.

With ten years of driving experience, I've dealt with numerous alignment issues. First, check if tire pressure is balanced by measuring all four tires with a gauge. Next, inspect tire wear—replace if tread depth difference between sides exceeds 1.5mm. Common causes include misaligned wheel alignment, especially incorrect toe angle making the car feel pulled. Don't overlook bent or loose chassis components; last time a curb impact bent a lower control arm. Stuck brake calipers are frequent—check wheel hub temperature after driving. Excessive steering linkage play creates looseness. Start with simple checks like tire pressure and brake heat before deciding on professional repair.


