
The reasons for the upper radiator hose being hot while the lower one is cold include insufficient engine coolant temperature, thermostat failure, and water pump failure. Water pump failure: The high-temperature coolant from the engine enters the radiator through the thermostat. After being cooled by the radiator, it is drawn back into the engine by the water pump to participate in the cooling cycle. When the water pump fails, the coolant pressure in the radiator is insufficient, preventing it from entering the engine block for cooling circulation, resulting in the upper hose being hot and the lower hose cold. Repairing or replacing the water pump can resolve this issue. Thermostat failure: When the thermostat malfunctions, it fails to open even after the engine coolant reaches the target temperature, remaining in the closed state. This leads to the upper hose being hot and the lower hose cold. Replacing the thermostat can fix the problem. Insufficient engine coolant temperature: The thermostat is usually installed on the upper radiator hose. When the engine temperature is too low, the thermostat remains closed. The high-temperature coolant stops flowing toward the radiator upon reaching the thermostat, causing the upper hose to be hot. Meanwhile, the lower hose carries low-temperature coolant drawn by the water pump from the radiator, which does not participate in the cooling cycle, resulting in the lower hose being cold. It is advisable to visit a 4S shop for professional repair.

I've encountered this situation before when driving an old car on a long trip. I only realized something was wrong when white smoke was puffing out from the front of the car. Upon inspection, I found the upper hose was scalding hot while the lower hose was ice cold. The usual causes are either a stuck thermostat that didn't open, causing the coolant to circulate only within the engine without flowing to the radiator; or a failed water pump preventing fluid circulation, leading to overheating and potential engine explosion when temperatures rise. Another possibility is air pockets or blockages in the cooling system preventing fluid circulation. In my case, it was a worn-out water pump that was replaced to fix the issue. A simple daily check by feeling the temperature difference between the hoses can help detect this problem early—don't wait until the temperature gauge spikes to fix it, as that could blow the head gasket and cost thousands in repairs. Regular coolant changes and thermostat checks can prevent most of these issues—safety first!

As an amateur car enthusiast who loves tinkering with my own vehicle, I've encountered this issue multiple times. Excessive temperature difference between upper and lower radiator hoses is truly frustrating. The root causes are usually a stuck thermostat or a failing water pump, causing coolant to stagnate in localized areas without proper circulation. My approach is to first check the coolant temperature sensor readings, then manually test the thermostat by soaking it in hot water - if it moves freely it's fine, otherwise replacement is needed. Additionally, pipe scaling or air pockets in the system can obstruct flow, leading to uneven cooling and potential engine overheating/oil burning. I recommend trying a cooling system cleaner additive first; if that doesn't work, seek professional repair immediately. Remember: never push your luck on highways - pulling over for inspection can save major repair costs, extend engine life, and reduce environmental pollution.

Last time my old car did the same thing, with the upper hose scalding hot and the lower one cold—really spooky. The main causes are usually a faulty thermostat or a non-functioning pump, causing the coolant to stagnate in the upper part. Experience taught me that shutting off the engine immediately to reduce risk is key. Just keep an eye on the temperature gauge regularly.


