What Causes the Nissan Sylphy Air Conditioning to Stop Working?
3 Answers
Refrigerant overcharge. Reduce the refrigerant amount appropriately. Poor heat dissipation. Check the condenser tube for dirt and clean the condenser. Blockage in the pipeline system. Refer to the pressure gauge for judgment and troubleshooting, then reprocess the system. Dust and scale buildup on the evaporator or filter. Reduced airflow leads to imbalance in system pressure and temperature; clean the evaporator or filter. Lack of refrigerant is also a possibility. When refrigerant is insufficient, the compressor's exhaust temperature will overheat, causing the overload protection switch to trip. Additional information includes electrical circuit issues such as: control circuit board failure, temperature sensor overload leading to incorrect information, loose or poor contact in power wiring, and burnt-out start capacitors or compressor start coils.
I recently encountered an issue with my Nissan Sylphy's air conditioning not working, which is really frustrating. The AC switch might be broken or not set to the correct mode—first, check if the buttons are responsive. The fan might only blow hot air or no air at all; try switching between internal and external circulation. Blown fuses are quite common—look for the A/C-labeled 15A fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, as it often burns out. No sound from the compressor? The electromagnetic clutch might be faulty, preventing it from starting. Refrigerant leakage is another major cause, especially when high-temperature pipe joint seals age. If the filter is clogged, airflow will weaken—it's best to clean or replace it. These issues generally can't be fixed on your own, so I recommend going to a repair shop for diagnostics ASAP to avoid driving hazards in summer.
As a seasoned Nissan Sylphy driver, I believe air conditioning failures are usually caused by several factors. The fuse is the first checkpoint—located in the dashboard fuse box—just replace it if blown. No compressor sound? The relay or clutch might be faulty, requiring voltage testing. If the fan isn’t spinning, poor cooling could mean a burnt resistor or motor. Low refrigerant pressure is common, but leaks are tricky—don’t tinker blindly. A faulty temperature sensor may trigger false alarms. Blocked AC lines, like a dirty condenser, reduce efficiency. Regular maintenance prevents issues, but now scanning trouble codes with tools is the quickest fix.
