
Geely Boyue 1.8T clutch pedal not returning may be due to the following reasons: Air in the hydraulic line: Air mixed in the hydraulic line causes excessive clutch travel and poor return. This issue can be easily diagnosed: if you feel little resistance and the clutch travel is unusually large when pressing the pedal, this is likely the cause. The solution is straightforward—bleed the clutch hydraulic line to remove the air. Worn clutch spring: Over time, the clutch spring may wear out. This issue develops gradually, not suddenly. If the clutch pedal's failure to return worsens progressively, it's likely due to a worn spring. The solution is to replace the clutch spring. Contaminated clutch fluid: Dirty or contaminated clutch fluid can clog the hydraulic ports, preventing the pedal from returning. To diagnose, check the color and clarity of the fluid in the clutch reservoir under the hood. If contaminated, replace the clutch fluid.

Regarding the issue of the Geely Boyue 1.8T clutch pedal not returning, I’ve personally repaired many similar cases before. The most likely cause is a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder—either internal leakage or a stuck piston, preventing hydraulic pressure from building up and causing the pedal to jam. Additionally, if air enters the hydraulic system (e.g., due to loose tubing connections), it can create air resistance, making the pedal sluggish or stuck. Severe clutch disc wear or foreign objects lodged inside may also hinder pedal return. Rust or deformation in the pedal’s linkage mechanism shouldn’t be overlooked, especially if the car frequently drives on rough roads, as mechanical parts can warp over time. I recommend a quick self-check: crouch down to inspect the pedal linkage for obvious bends and try wiggling it by hand. If tools are available, check the hydraulic fluid reservoir—low or murky fluid may require topping up or bleeding. However, this issue shouldn’t be delayed, as neglecting it could compromise transmission safety, potentially leading to gear-shifting failure and accidents. Don’t cut corners—visit a reliable repair shop promptly for diagnosis.

I drive the same model and experienced the embarrassing moment when the clutch pedal wouldn't return last year. It happened on the highway - at first I thought the pedal linkage was stuck, but later at the repair shop we found the clutch slave cylinder's oil seal had aged and leaked. After all the hydraulic fluid leaked out, the system lost pressure and the pedal just stayed down. Another common cause is air getting into the hydraulic lines, like when small bubbles remain after incomplete fluid replacement during maintenance. As cars age, excessive wear or dust buildup on the clutch disc can also make the mechanism sticky. The lesson I learned: always have technicians check the clutch system during routine maintenance to prevent hydraulic fluid deterioration. If the pedal feels soft or sluggish while driving, that's a warning sign to address it early. Never push through it - I replaced the parts afterward. It cost some money but is much safer now.

When encountering a clutch pedal that doesn't return, common causes include: failure of the clutch master or slave cylinder, hydraulic system oil leakage or air ingress, rusted or deformed mechanical pedal mechanism, or damaged/sticking clutch disc. Simply put, insufficient hydraulic pressure will cause pedal operation failure. For vehicles like the Geely Boyue 1.8T, I recommend first checking the oil level and whether the pedal moves smoothly. If issues are found, avoid DIY repairs as they may damage other components - it's best to immediately visit a professional repair shop. Technicians will test hydraulic pressure and replace faulty parts. Safety first - don't risk continuing to drive.


