
There are many reasons for brake noise, such as sand particles entering the brake disc, loose screws fixing the brake disc, or degraded brake fluid quality. Braking Techniques to Prevent "Lurching": If the braking distance is sufficient, you can slowly and steadily press the brake pedal to decelerate. As the car is about to come to a stop, gently release the brake pedal until the car completely stops. Braking Techniques on Slopes: Actually, braking on an uphill slope is similar to braking on a flat road—both require gently pressing the brake pedal. However, when releasing the brake, it should be done faster than on a flat road. When braking on a downhill slope, avoid pressing the brake pedal for an extended period, as this can easily lead to excessive wear of the brake friction pads and reduced effectiveness. Instead, you can use intermittent braking (pump the brakes) to decelerate and bring the car to a stop.

Driving the Tacqua for commuting is most annoying when the brakes squeak, right? Even with just three years of driving experience, I've encountered this issue and found three most common causes. New brake pads need a break-in period of a few hundred kilometers, during which they may produce temporary noises; in rainy or humid conditions, the brake discs can rust, causing a sandy sound during the first few brakes; the most critical issue is when the brake pads are nearly worn out, and the metal wear indicator scrapes against the brake disc, resulting in a sharp squeal. I remember my right rear wheel was particularly noisy once, and upon inspection, the brake pads were down to just two millimeters—promptly replaced them with Bosch ceramic pads. By the way, Volkswagen models tend to accumulate dust on the rear wheels, so it's advisable to clean the brake dust every quarter.

Yesterday, I drove my bestie's Tacqua for shopping, and there was always a metal friction sound when braking. I told her to check the brake pad thickness immediately. For cars on the Volkswagen MQB platform, the OEM brake pads are relatively hard, especially with frequent braking in urban areas, which is more prone to squealing. Also, the caliper slide rails should be checked for lubrication. Last year, my car had abnormal noises due to lack of grease here. Pay extra attention on rainy days, as the rust layer formed on the brake disc surface can cause a rustling sound during initial braking, but it will go away after driving a couple of kilometers. Those who have replaced their brake discs should be even more cautious, as aftermarket discs sometimes don't match well and can also produce noises. It's recommended to perform a deep brake maintenance around 15,000 kilometers.

Don't panic when encountering brake noise. The Tacqua may produce sounds in three situations: initial braking on cold mornings when the brake pads are damp or have condensation, resulting in brief noise; when the brake disc's water film hasn't dried after washing the car; and the moment braking on bumpy roads. Last week, while helping my dad check his car, we found that a stuck guide pin caused one-sided brake dragging—the noise disappeared after cleaning. Brake disc grooves exceeding 1mm in depth must be resurfaced or replaced. Veteran drivers recommend asking the mechanic to check the brake pad wear indicator hook during every maintenance.


