
poloplus brake noise causes: 1. If it's a squeal, first check if the brake pads are nearly worn out (the wear indicator is making noise). 2. If they are new brake pads, see if the brake disc has grooves, as localized friction can cause noise. If the brake disc is fine, consider whether the brake pads are too hard or if the noise-reducing shims were installed incorrectly. Also check for any foreign objects caught between the brake disc and pads. 3. If it's a dull noise, it might be an issue with the brake caliper, such as worn sliding pins or detached spring clips. 4. If it's a hissing sound, there could be multiple issues—problems with the caliper, brake disc, or brake pads. 5. If the noise persists, check for brake drag. Poor caliper retraction can cause prolonged friction between the disc and pads, leading to noise under certain conditions.

Last time I drove my friend's Polo Plus, I encountered a similar issue and did some research. The most common cause of brake squeaking in new cars is the break-in period of brake pads. Metal particles rubbing against the brake disc can produce sharp noises, especially noticeable in rainy weather, but it usually disappears after a few hundred kilometers. If an older car suddenly starts making strange noises, you should immediately check the thickness of the brake pads. When they wear down to the warning metal tabs, that screeching sound is urging you to replace them. Occasionally, small stones can get stuck between the brake disc and the shield, causing a clanging noise—a few light brake applications might shake them loose. Here's a lesser-known fact: long-term slow city driving can cause a hard layer to form on the brake disc surface, but a few hard stops can grind it off and restore quiet operation. However, if the steering wheel shakes when braking, it's likely due to warped brake discs, which will require machining or replacement.

I've dealt with brake squealing issues several times and found that the Polo Plus is particularly picky about brake pad materials. The factory pads are semi-metallic, which provide good braking but are prone to noise. Switching to ceramic compound pads can eliminate 90% of the abnormal sounds. There's another often-overlooked detail: if the springs in the rear drum brakes become loose, you'll hear metal grinding noises when braking - just disassemble and tighten them yourself. For older cars, pay attention to whether there are raised edges on the brake discs; if they rub against the sides of the brake pads, it can also cause abnormal noises. By the way, if you hear that sharp 'screech' when reversing the day after washing your car and leaving it parked, it's usually just surface rust on the brake discs - it'll go away after driving for a couple minutes, don't let repair shops trick you into replacing parts.

To diagnose brake noise, start by identifying the sound source. A 'hissing' sound during light braking may indicate insufficient lubrication of guide pins causing uneven pad contact. A 'clunk' under hard braking suggests loose caliper bolts. The splashing sound in rainy conditions is normal water drainage. Personally, I address noise by first sanding the brake pad edges with chamfering - a crucial step when installing new pads that prevents 70% of noise issues. Winter squeaks from hardened rubber components require no action; they disappear after 30 minutes of heater use. However, acceleration-phase noises demand immediate inspection of brake caliper retraction - a shop visit becomes unavoidable in such cases.


