
Brake softness can be attributed to the following reasons: 1. Poor performance of brake fluid, resulting in insufficient friction between the brake pads and brake discs. 2. Over time, moisture can seep into the system. After the moisture evaporates, a certain amount of air gap forms between the brake pads and brake discs, leading to the phenomenon of soft and ineffective brakes. Self-adjustment methods for soft brakes: 1. Start the car and wait for the idle speed to stabilize (approximately 2-3 minutes). 2. Press the brake pedal firmly all the way down, applying strong force. 3. After two seconds, pull up the handbrake while keeping the foot brake pressed firmly for several seconds. 4. Then slowly release the foot brake and finally release the handbrake to complete the adjustment.

Last time I experienced soft brakes, the most obvious issue was the brake fluid. Over time, the fluid absorbs moisture, lowering its boiling point and making the pedal feel weak. Once, during a long mountain drive, after a few consecutive brake applications, it felt like stepping on cotton—absolutely terrifying. Also, watch out for leaks or air bubbles in the brake lines, as aging rubber hoses in older cars can swell and affect pressure transfer. Worn brake pads can also increase pedal travel, especially in cars with aftermarket parts. The worst is when the master cylinder fails—internal seal leaks directly cause pressure loss. I recommend first checking the brake fluid level, then having the lines inspected and bled for air. If that doesn’t work, replacing the master cylinder is the safest bet.

A spongy brake pedal is most likely due to air entering the brake system. I encountered this when changing brake pads myself – accidentally letting air into the lines during disassembly. It took half a day with a dedicated brake bleeder tool to fix it. Also, if the brake fluid hasn't been changed in two years, deteriorated fluid is serious trouble – high water content makes the pedal feel like stepping on a sponge. Checking for caliper leaks is crucial too – wetness on the inner wheel hub is a dead giveaway. Another hidden danger is vacuum hose leaks in the brake booster, noticeable by hissing sounds during cold starts. I remember one rainy day with slippery roads when I nearly rear-ended someone – turned out the master cylinder piston seal had aged. Since then, I always have mechanics prioritize brake inspections during maintenance.

Don't ignore soft brakes, I've learned this the hard way. Common issues are just a few: brake fluid overdue for replacement with excessive moisture content, air trapped in lines affecting pressure, failed brake pump seals causing leaks, or aged/ deformed hoses expanding. Modified car owners should be extra cautious - using inferior braided hoses can cause this too. The worst is internal master cylinder leakage - the pedal sinks but the car won't stop. Early detection means repairable, but delayed means real danger. Last time my brakes felt soft, the mechanic diagnosed a failing master cylinder with pressure tests and replaced it along with a full fluid flush.


