
"Oil burning" refers to the phenomenon where engine oil enters the combustion chamber of the engine and participates in combustion along with the air-fuel mixture. The detailed situation is as follows: How to Identify: Cold-start oil burning: Every morning when starting the car for the first time, thick blue smoke will be emitted from the rear exhaust pipe. After a while, the blue smoke disappears, and similar situations generally do not occur again that day. Oil burning during acceleration: When the driver steps hard on the accelerator while driving or revs the engine while stationary, a large amount of blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe. In severe cases, the driver can see blue smoke from the side mirror of the exhaust pipe after stepping hard on the accelerator while driving. Causes of the Fault: Due to the inconsistency between domestic fuel quality and international standards, a large amount of carbon deposits can easily form in the combustion chamber during engine operation. Carbon deposits are the root cause of various engine problems. Carbon deposits accumulate in the piston grooves, causing the piston rings to stick together. This results in the piston rings being stuck and unable to seal completely. The "stuck" piston rings greatly reduce the oil-scraping and sealing ability. Additionally, sludge can clog the oil return holes, preventing the engine oil from returning normally, leading to increased oil consumption.

I've driven an Audi A6 for over a decade, and oil burning is a very common issue, especially in older models. The main problems lie in the piston rings and valve stem seals inside the engine. Over time, the rubber components deteriorate, and the sealing performance can't keep up, causing oil to leak into the combustion chamber and burn. Another issue is the aging of turbocharger seals, which is particularly troublesome to repair. During every maintenance session, I keep a close eye on the dipstick. When I notice the oil level dropping unusually fast, I know there's a problem—sometimes losing over a liter in just 5,000 kilometers. Now, I regularly inspect these components and replace the seals every 100,000 kilometers or so. It's much more cost-effective than waiting for a complete engine failure and needing a major overhaul. Oil burning shouldn't be ignored, as excessive carbon buildup can cause even more damage, potentially ruining the catalytic converter. While newer Audi engines have seen significant improvements, owners of older models still need to pay extra attention to maintenance.

Over the years of repairing Audis, I've handled hundreds of oil burning cases. There are essentially three root causes: piston ring wear leading to incomplete oil scraping from cylinder walls, aging valve stem seals causing oil leaks, and turbocharger oil seal failure. German car engines operate at high temperatures, making rubber components prone to hardening and cracking. The most noticeable dashboard indicators are the oil warning light and blue smoke from the exhaust, especially during acceleration. Repair methods vary - if it's a valve seal issue, replacement without disassembly can be done in a day; but piston ring problems require engine removal, costing over ten thousand. For daily prevention, owners should check the dipstick every 5,000 km, and using full synthetic oil can delay component aging. Severe oil burning requires immediate stopping of the vehicle to avoid significant cylinder scoring risk.

The issue of Audi burning oil depends on the specific situation. If a new car burns oil, it might be due to piston ring installation issues or engine manufacturing defects. For older cars, oil burning is usually caused by aging valve stem seals, especially noticeable in vehicles frequently driven on short trips. Turbocharged models require special attention to the turbocharger bearing seals, as repairing these can be extremely costly. From personal experience, it's advisable to record the oil level before each maintenance. If the oil consumption exceeds half a liter over 6,000 kilometers, it's a warning sign. As a temporary solution, switching to a higher viscosity oil like 5W-40 can provide temporary relief but doesn't address the root cause. Replacing with improved seals shows significant results, costing around three to four thousand. Remember, don't easily trust those 'no-disassembly' treatments; nine times out of ten, they're a waste of money. Ensure thorough warm-up of the engine daily, as aggressive acceleration when the engine is cold is most damaging to the seals.


