
It may be that the reverse switch on the vehicle's handle is broken, causing it to remain in reverse mode, or the reverse signal wire may be damaged. Below is related information about electric tricycles: Electric Tricycle (Electrically operated tricycle): It is a three-wheeled transport vehicle powered by batteries and driven by a motor, used for carrying goods or passengers. Batteries used in electric tricycles: Electric tricycles use tubular, high-capacity, deep-discharge, traction-type batteries with left and right liners, which can meet the requirements of continuous discharge for long working hours. Under normal use, the battery lasts for two years without losing capacity. The motor of an electric tricycle uses a DC series-wound traction-type brushed or brushless motor, equipped with a speed-regulating and power-increasing device inside. It is not easily damaged under normal use, ensuring strong power output.

A few days ago, my neighbor's vegetable-hauling tricycle had the same issue, and I took a look. The most common cause is the aging or displacement of the contact plates inside the forward/reverse switch—this thing gets constantly flipped back and forth and is prone to wear. Another possibility is that the logic chip in the controller got jostled loose, especially in vehicles that have been exposed to rain. For wiring, focus on checking the cables connected to the forward/reverse switch to see if any insulation is worn and causing a short. The weirdest case I encountered was a faulty Hall sensor in the throttle grip, where erratic signals turned forward commands into reverse. Fixing it isn’t too hard—start by replacing the forward/reverse switch; it’s just a ten-dollar part.

Electric tricycles switching from forward to reverse can be quite dangerous. I've encountered seven or eight cases, with 60% caused by deformed copper contacts inside the reverse switch. The inspection is simple: open the switch casing and check if the three contact copper plates inside are misaligned or stuck together. Also, don't overlook loose connections at the controller wiring port - bumpy roads can cause intermittent connections that send erratic signals. I remember one vehicle had a stuck brake cutoff switch as the culprit. This component is installed at the end of the brake cable, and if the rubber cover breaks allowing sand ingress, it can malfunction. When repairing, always disconnect the battery cables and use a multimeter to verify the switch's on/off status for safety.

This issue usually stems from three potential problems. If the forward/reverse switch has poor contact, the forward contact may actually connect to the reverse circuit. When the MOSFET inside the controller breaks down, the input signals and output functions will become chaotic. A damaged Hall sensor in the throttle grip is more troublesome, as it generates erroneous signals that cause the controller to misjudge the direction. For self-troubleshooting, first unplug the throttle grip connector and push the vehicle to test if the resistance feels normal. Focus on checking whether the three-phase wires from the controller to the motor are short-circuited, and tap the forward/reverse switch with a screwdriver handle to listen for any abnormal noise. If all else fails, simply replace the switch with a new one for testing.


