
Automatic transmission cars may shudder during startup due to severe carbon buildup or unstable oil pressure. Below are detailed explanations: Severe Carbon Buildup: The most common cause of car shuddering is a dirty throttle body or excessive carbon deposits on the fuel injectors. When there is too much carbon buildup inside the engine, the gasoline sprayed by the cold-start injectors can be largely absorbed by the carbon deposits, resulting in an overly lean air-fuel mixture during cold starts. This makes the car difficult to start. In such cases, the vehicle will only start easily once the carbon deposits have absorbed enough gasoline to reach saturation. After starting, the gasoline adsorbed on the carbon deposits will be drawn into the combustion chamber by the engine's vacuum suction, causing idle shuddering after a cold start. Unstable Oil Pressure: If you have already cleaned the engine carbon deposits, throttle body, replaced gaskets and spark plugs, but still notice the car shuddering at idle, it is recommended to visit a 4S shop to check whether the fuel supply pressure and intake pressure sensors are functioning properly. Abnormal fuel pump pressure or incorrect readings and poor performance of the intake pressure sensor can both cause the car to shudder.

I remember that shaking during automatic transmission car starts is quite common. Common causes include aging transmission fluid or the fluid level being too low, leading to insufficient hydraulic system pressure and preventing the torque converter from engaging smoothly. Aging or broken engine mount rubber can also cause shaking due to failed vibration damping. If there are issues with the ignition system, such as excessive spark plug carbon buildup or damaged high-voltage wires, the engine output becomes unstable and transmits to the transmission. I've experienced more severe shaking during cold starts, which improved significantly after replacing the transmission fluid. Regular fluid changes are crucial—replacing it every 40,000 to 60,000 kilometers can prevent this issue. Checking the dipstick level before starting is also essential; if it's low, top it up promptly to avoid accelerated wear. Shaking is more noticeable during frequent starts in traffic jams, and long-term neglect can damage the transmission, increasing maintenance costs.

As someone who drives frequently, I believe that jerking during acceleration is often due to delayed maintenance. Transmission fluid should be changed on schedule; old oil loses viscosity, leading to insufficient lubrication and poor hydraulic power transfer, which naturally causes jerking. Another contributing factor is aging engine mounts—when the rubber components crack, the mounts become unstable. I've also noticed that a dirty intake system, such as a carbon-fouled throttle body, can affect fuel delivery, causing uneven combustion of the air-fuel mixture during acceleration and resulting in jerking. A clogged air filter can similarly lead to insufficient air intake. It's advisable to inspect these components every 20,000 kilometers—cleaning carbon buildup or replacing the filter is simple and inexpensive. Gradually pressing the accelerator during starts can help mitigate the issue, but prolonged neglect may damage internal transmission components, leading to much higher repair costs. Prevention is far more economical.

Common causes of car shaking during repairs stem from mechanical failures. Worn-out spark plugs or damaged ignition coils can lead to uneven engine ignition, transmitting vibrations to the transmission and causing shaking during acceleration. A faulty throttle position sensor may send inaccurate signals, resulting in improper fuel adjustment. From my experience inspecting numerous vehicles, damaged engine mounts are the most frequent culprit, especially cracked rubber blocks or loose bolts. Another possibility is premature torque converter lock-up or unstable oil pressure. Quick verification: Does the car shake severely during cold starts? If yes, fuel quality issues are likely; if shaking persists when the engine is warm, inspect mounts or sensors. Sensor issues can be diagnosed by reading fault codes, while replacing mounts can resolve the problem and prevent further transmission damage from worsening vibrations.


