
There are many reasons for abnormal noises in a sedan's chassis: noises caused by looseness or deformation of chassis components, noise from tire tread patterns, noises from internal parts of the chassis such as the engine or transmission, noises from various transmission devices like the front axle, rear axle (depending on the drive structure), connecting parts, etc., and noises from the front or rear wheel bearings. When abnormal noises occur in the sedan's chassis, it is recommended to send the vehicle directly to an authorized service center for inspection and repair. This ensures the use of genuine parts and maintains warranty coverage. For out-of-warranty vehicles, it is still advisable to visit an authorized service center to ensure safety. The chassis refers to the combination of the transmission system, running gear, steering system, and braking system in a vehicle. It supports and mounts the engine and other components, forming the vehicle's overall structure, bearing the engine's power, and ensuring normal operation.

With over a decade of car ownership experience, the most common chassis noise is a 'creaking' sound when going over speed bumps or potholes. This is often caused by aging and cracking of the lower control arm bushings - just like dried rubber that hardens and loses its cushioning effect. When the stabilizer bar bushings wear out, you'll hear a 'thudding' noise during turns, especially noticeable on rainy days. Last time my car made a 'squeaking' sound during low-speed braking, and inspection revealed stuck brake caliper guide pins - failing to fix this promptly can lead to uneven wear. If you hear a metallic 'clanging' noise, immediately check if the subframe bolts are loose, as this can even cause steering wheel vibration. I recommend having mechanics use a pry bar to check chassis components during each maintenance - any play can help detect issues early.

As someone who frequently drives on rough roads, I'm all too familiar with chassis noises. When shock absorbers leak oil, they make a 'whooshing' sound like a bicycle pump when going over bumps. Worn steering tie rod ball joints produce a 'clicking' noise, especially noticeable when turning the steering wheel to its limit. A damaged CV joint causes rhythmic 'clunking' sounds during acceleration, worsening when turning. Once, my car had a 'humming' resonance from the rear wheel area - turned out to be shattered bearing balls. Remember to pay special attention to chassis sounds during rainy days, as rubber bushings make more obvious noises when wet, making diagnosis most accurate then.

Three common chassis noises during car repairs: Loose ball joints produce a metallic knocking sound, especially noticeable during initial acceleration; Aged rubber bushings create a 'squeaking' noise when the vehicle moves up and down; Broken exhaust hangers cause the exhaust pipe to hit the chassis, resulting in a 'thudding' sound. Last time, a Ford Focus made a 'thumping' noise when cornering, which turned out to be due to worn stabilizer link ball joints. Metallic fatigue sounds and rubber friction sounds are easy to distinguish—the former is sharp while the latter is dull. Regular inspection of chassis bolt torque is crucial, as many abnormal noises originate from loose bolts.

Identifying chassis noises requires scenario-based analysis: For rattles on bumpy roads, prioritize checking control arm bushings and stabilizer bars; brake squeals point to caliper brackets or brake pads; turning noises suggest inspecting CV axles and steering gear; acceleration noises warrant attention to driveshaft U-joints. A critical reminder: steering gear oil leaks produce a 'rustling' friction sound, and continued driving may lead to steering failure. Last time, a neighbor's car made a 'snapping' noise - turned out to be a broken spring piercing the tire. Deformed skid plates can also collide with the frame causing noises, often occurring after undercarriage impacts.


