
Abnormal car lights are mainly caused by bulb failure, fuse blowout, switch or relay damage, and circuit faults. During troubleshooting, the circuit should be inspected according to the circuit diagram to identify the faulty part. If one light does not work, it is usually due to a burnt-out filament; if several lights do not work and the horn does not sound, it may be due to a blown main fuse; if all bulbs on the same fuse do not work, the fuse may have blown. Dim lights are often caused by insufficient battery power or faults in the generator and regulator. Loose or poor contact in wire connections, undersized or poorly grounded wires, damaged diffusers or dirty reflectors, blackened bulb surfaces or insufficient wattage, and filaments not positioned at the reflector's focal point can all lead to dim lighting.

I've encountered this issue several times in over twenty years of driving. There are many abnormal behaviors with car lights. If the headlights flicker or dim, it's mostly due to poor wiring contact, especially in older cars where the wiring has aged and the connectors tend to oxidize. When half of the taillight doesn't work, it's most commonly a burnt-out bulb, and replacing it is just a matter of a few bucks. If the turn signal flashes too fast or stops flashing altogether, it's either a burnt bulb or a blown fuse. Be cautious if lights malfunction after rain—it could be water short-circuiting the light housing. Last month, my old Jetta had this problem, and when I popped the hood, I found the generator's voltage was unstable, shortening the lifespan of the bulbs. These hidden dangers shouldn't be ignored. Once, while driving on a provincial road at night, my headlights suddenly went out, and I nearly hit a roadside barrier—it still gives me chills thinking about it. Remember to wipe the light covers when washing the car, and using fog lights in foggy conditions can help reduce accidents.

Speaking of car light malfunctions, I have personal experience as a car owner. Last week, my right turn signal suddenly stopped working. Upon inspection, I found that the contact plate in the lamp socket had oxidized, and a quick sanding fixed it. The vehicle lighting system is actually quite intricate, with common faults typically concentrated in three areas: the power section, including battery and alternator voltage issues; the control section, such as relay and switch contact burnouts; and the execution section, which involves bulb aging or poor contact. Additionally, if xenon lights are retrofitted without adding lenses, overheating wires can also cause abnormalities. I find hidden wiring faults the most troublesome—last time, the repair shop spent half an hour with a multimeter to locate a short circuit. It's important to regularly check the dashboard warning lights and test the lights before dark. Keeping spare bulbs of the same model in the trunk is quite practical, as changing bulbs during an emergency stop on the highway is too dangerous.

The issue of abnormal lighting depends on the specific situation. Sudden dimming of headlights may be caused by a loose alternator belt leading to insufficient power supply; complete failure of taillights requires checking if the rear wiring harness is crushed by cargo in the trunk; intermittent operation of turn signals or hazard lights is likely due to moisture in the relay box. I recommend starting with basic troubleshooting: open the hood and inspect the fuse box for the lighting-related fuses, usually numbered on the inside of the cover; then check all lamp connectors by squeezing them to see if any are loose; finally, cycle the parking lights, high beams, and fog lights on and off several times. If you can't resolve it yourself, it's best to take a diagnostic scanner to a repair shop, as many modern lighting systems are integrated with the vehicle's computer. Remember to go to a certified shop for lighting modifications, as illegal modifications can lead to trouble if caught by traffic police.


