What Causes a Key to Get Half-Stuck in the Lock and Unable to Turn?
4 Answers
Door lock damage: If the key suddenly won't turn, it might not be aligned properly, or the lock cylinder could be damaged. Different types of damage require different solutions. If the key isn't aligned, pressing it downward may help. Solutions for a stuck key are as follows: Solution 1: If the lock hole is damaged, try lubricating it. First, clean the lock surface with a cloth, then apply a small amount of lubricating oil or soybean oil inside. If brushing is difficult, use a dropper to add a few drops. Test the key—if it turns smoothly, clean the lock afterward. Solution 2: If the key won't turn due to stiff lock pins, check if you have a pencil at home. Scrape some pencil lead into the lock hole, then insert and turn the key a few times to open the lock—this method is very convenient.
Last time my car key got stuck halfway and wouldn't turn, which really panicked me. I've helped friends deal with similar issues before - it's usually caused by dust in the lock cylinder or stuck pin springs, and forcing it could break the key. I gently pulled the key back slightly and tried again while having someone turn the steering wheel to relieve pressure on the lock cylinder. If that didn't work, spraying some WD-40 lubricant and waiting five minutes for it to penetrate before gently wiggling the key to slowly turn it out would do the trick. Normally, avoid keeping keys together with hard objects like phone chargers to prevent bending. When washing the car, it's best to cover the keyhole - too much dust will cause problems eventually. If the lock cylinder frequently gets stuck, it's advisable to have it thoroughly checked by professionals. Replacing the entire lock cylinder only costs a few hundred bucks, much better than breaking down on the road.
I just went through this last week. Rushing to work in the morning, the key suddenly got stuck, and I was stomping my feet in frustration. The mechanic said it's most likely due to aging lock cylinders or key wear and deformation, especially for old car keys like mine that have been used for seven or eight years. As a temporary fix, scrape some graphite powder from a pencil lead and pour it into the keyhole for lubrication—it barely worked to get the key out in an emergency. For a long-term solution, you need to get a new key. When duplicating it, use the original factory key as a mold; copies made at roadside stalls are often inaccurate and prone to sticking. If the lock cylinder feels stiff, don’t skimp—apply lubricating grease as needed. I add two drops of car-specific lubricating oil monthly for maintenance. Last time, I saw a neighbor force-turning the key and completely wrecking the lock cylinder, costing over a thousand to replace the entire car lock—a real painful lesson.
I've also encountered the issue of the key getting stuck halfway twice, both times on rainy days. The first time was in winter after washing the car when the keyhole froze, and the second time was during the rainy season when the lock cylinder rusted. The solution is simple: use a hairdryer on warm setting to blow hot air into the keyhole for five minutes to defrost and dehumidify, then spray metal anti-rust lubricant. For regular maintenance, remember to cover the keyhole with a rubber cap to prevent dust and moisture, and avoid using high-pressure water jets directly on door locks when washing the car. The mechanical key of a remote key can easily get stuck if unused for long periods, so insert and remove it a few times every half month to keep it smooth. If you notice increased resistance when inserting or removing the key, address it early. If you wait until it's completely stuck, you'll have no choice but to break the lock.
