
Car air conditioner frequently starting every 10 seconds is caused by: 1. The energy-saving mode of the car air conditioner being activated; 2. High exhaust pressure and low suction pressure, with moisture in the system causing pipe blockage and icing; 3. Insufficient or excessive refrigerant, as the amount of refrigerant determines the system pressure, and abnormal pressure can cause the compressor to start and stop frequently; 4. The relay setting limit is too high. Below is an introduction to air conditioner maintenance: 1. Comprehensive inspection of the air conditioner: When using the air conditioner for the first time in summer, check the air conditioning system, such as checking the refrigerant and whether the air filter is too dirty through the liquid storage tank, and whether there are foreign objects in the radiator. 2. Pay attention to air conditioner cleaning: The air filter should be replaced regularly, otherwise the air conditioner will produce a musty smell. In addition, the condenser should also be cleaned regularly, and the water tank should be removed for thorough cleaning.

I've been repairing cars for almost twenty years, and I've encountered quite a few cases where the air conditioning cycles every ten seconds. The most common cause is insufficient refrigerant or abnormal pressure, which makes the compressor frequently start and stop to protect the system. Sometimes, a faulty pressure switch or thermostat can also cause this issue—it misjudges and shuts down even when the temperature is still high. If the cooling fan isn't working or the condenser is clogged, poor heat dissipation leads to a pressure surge, forcing the compressor to stop. Loose wiring or control board failures are also frustrating; a loose connector can make the AC start and stop unpredictably. Last time, I worked on a car where the compressor clutch was worn out, making a constant clicking noise—it only stopped after replacement. If the compressor is broken, you'll need to replace the entire unit. I recommend early diagnosis to avoid scrapping the whole system, as that can be very costly.

My old Bora had the same issue last summer. The AC would blow cold for just ten seconds then shut off, only to restart after a while. At the repair shop, the mechanic spent half an hour diagnosing it. First, he connected a pressure gauge to check the refrigerant and found low pressure in the low-pressure pipe, indicating a slow leak causing insufficient refrigerant. He also cleaned the willow catkins clogging the condenser, as poor heat dissipation can overwork the compressor. During inspection, he noticed oxidized contacts on the pressure switch and replaced it. Finally, he found an abnormal fan resistor—the low-speed setting wasn’t working, affecting cooling. Spending 300 yuan to replace the resistor fixed the problem immediately. After the repair, I learned that a clogged AC drain pipe causing evaporator icing could also trigger this issue—quite an eye-opener.

The compressor in our car is like a hardworking laborer, starting and stopping entirely under the command of the temperature sensor. If the sensor gets covered in dust or is misaligned, it might falsely signal low temperatures, causing the compressor to shut down prematurely. Insufficient refrigerant purity or the presence of air is like giving the worker diluted tasks, leading to unstable pressure and frequent restarts. The most common issue is refrigerant leakage in the AC piping—applying soapy water to the connections can reveal bubbles. The most troublesome problem is excessive clearance in the compressor clutch, which requires professional tools to measure; a gap exceeding 0.5 mm can cause slippage. I've seen cases where someone used an OBD scanner to read the evaporator temperature data stream and noticed the temperature curve jumping like an EKG—replacing the sensor immediately fixed the issue. Regularly replacing the cabin air filter can prevent most problems.

Never ignore frequent compressor cycling - it's extremely damaging to vehicles. Dozens of extra start-stop cycles per hour can burn out the electromagnetic clutch in just three months, and replacing it with OEM parts costs around 2,000 yuan. My neighbor's car saw a 15% fuel consumption spike because of this. When the compressor fails completely, it becomes dangerous - they almost had an accident on the highway during summer when defogging became impossible. First diagnose whether it's refrigerant shortage or electrical issues: check if the radiator fan runs at idle, then feel the temperature difference between high/low pressure pipes (the low-pressure pipe should normally have water droplets). Repair shops connect gauges to high/low pressure ports - abnormal readings indicate refrigerant issues. The temperature sensor costs just 40-50 yuan and can be replaced by removing the glove box. If the condenser is clogged with insect debris, rinse it from the inside out with a regular hose, avoiding pressure washers.


