
The short answer is that very few modern cars are designed to run exclusively on ethanol-free gas. The vast majority of gasoline vehicles produced since the 1980s are engineered to run perfectly on regular gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol (E10). In fact, using ethanol-free gas in these cars is often an unnecessary expense. The primary users of ethanol-free gas are owners of specific types of engines that can be damaged by ethanol, including classic cars, boats, small engines (like those in lawnmowers and chainsaws), and certain high-performance or specialized off-road vehicles.
The issue with ethanol in older or small engines is its chemical properties. Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. This can lead to phase separation in the fuel tank, where water-contaminated ethanol sinks to the bottom, potentially causing corrosion and engine damage. For modern cars with sealed fuel systems and engines designed for E10, this is rarely a problem.
If you're unsure about your vehicle, the definitive source is your owner's manual. It will specify the recommended fuel. For context, here’s a breakdown of common engine types and their fuel requirements:
| Engine / Vehicle Type | Typical Fuel Requirement | Reason for Ethanol-Free Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Modern Cars (Post-1980s) | Up to E10 (10% Ethanol) | Engineered for it; improves octane and burns cleaner. |
| Classic/ Vintage Cars (Pre-1980s) | Ethanol-Free Recommended | Older rubber seals and gaskets can degrade with ethanol. |
| Marine Engines (Boats) | Ethanol-Free Strongly Advised | Prevents moisture absorption and corrosion in fuel systems. |
| Small Engines (Lawn Equipment) | Ethanol-Free Strongly Advised | Prevents carburetor clogs and fuel system damage from stale fuel. |
| High-Compression Performance Engines | May require higher octane, not necessarily ethanol-free. | Octane rating is the critical factor, not ethanol content. |
| Motorcycles (especially carbureted) | Check manual; ethanol-free often preferred. | Similar issues as small engines with fuel system degradation. |
Ultimately, for your daily driver, E10 is perfectly fine. Reserve the more expensive and harder-to-find ethanol-free gas for the equipment that truly needs it.

My '67 Mustang sits in the garage, and I only feed it ethanol-free gas. The stuff they sell as regular today can wreck the carburetor and rubber hoses in these old girls. It’s not worth the risk. For my daily SUV, I just use whatever the pump offers. The manual says E10 is fine, so I don’t sweat it. It’s all about knowing which of your vehicles has a sensitive stomach.

As a boat owner, ethanol-free gas isn't a luxury; it's a necessity. Ethanol-blended fuel attracts water, which is a disaster in a marine environment. This can lead to phase separation, clogging fuel filters and causing engine failure far from shore. My mechanic and every reputable marine dealer insist on it. For my car, I don't bother, but for my boat's safety and longevity, I only use ethanol-free fuel.

I learned the hard way with my lawnmower. After a season of using regular gas, it wouldn't start. The mechanic showed me the gunk in the carburetor from the ethanol in the fuel breaking down. Now, I use ethanol-free gas in all my small engines: the mower, the leaf blower, the chainsaw. They start on the first pull every spring. It’s more expensive per gallon, but it saves me on repair bills and frustration.

From a purely practical standpoint, unless you own a classic car, boat, or small power equipment, you are wasting money on ethanol-free gas. Modern fuel systems are sealed and designed to handle E10 without issue. The key is to follow your owner's manual. If it approves E10, you're good to go. The ethanol content actually boosts the octane rating slightly. The only time I'd consider it for a modern vehicle is if it was going to be stored for many months, as ethanol-free gas has a longer shelf life.


