What Are the Types of Lubricating Oil?
4 Answers
Common lubricating oils can be roughly divided into three categories: industrial oils, automotive oils, and greases. Additional details are as follows: 1. Industrial oils: Total loss system oil L-AN, steam turbine (turbo) oil L-TSA, industrial gear oil L-CKC, CKD, AP, CKT, hydraulic oil L-HL, HM, HV, HS, air compressor oil L-DAB, DAG, DAH, refrigeration oil L-DRA, DRA/B. 2. Automotive oils: Diesel engine oil - CC/CD/CF/CH/CI, gasoline engine oil SE, SG, SL, SM, SN; auxiliary vehicle oils: brake fluid, hydraulic transmission oil, antifreeze, vehicle gear oil. 3. Greases: Calcium-based grease, general lithium-based grease, extreme pressure lithium-based grease, molybdenum disulfide lithium, complex lithium-based grease, HP-R grease, as well as various special-purpose greases, transformer oil, thermal oil, metalworking fluids, etc.
When it comes to lubricant specifications, I have to share my experience from car repairs. There are quite a few types of lubricants, with viscosity grades being the most basic, classified under SAE standards, such as 5W-30, 10W-40, etc. The 'W' stands for winter, and the smaller the number, the better it is for cold starts. The larger the number after, the better it performs in high temperatures. Different cars require different types; older cars might use 10W-40, while newer models tend to favor lower viscosity oils like 0W-20 for better fuel efficiency. Performance specifications are also crucial, with API standards like SN or SP grades suitable for gasoline engines, whereas diesel engines require types like CK-4. I usually opt for full synthetic oil because it offers superior resistance to high-temperature oxidation, protects engine components, and reduces wear, especially during high-speed driving or in traffic jams. Choosing the wrong type can lead to increased fuel consumption or even engine damage, so it's important to regularly check oil levels and change it on time. Don't forget to check the label on the oil can; those marked as energy-saving or with long oil change intervals are more considerate choices.
From my perspective on vehicle usage, lubricant models are mainly divided into two categories: viscosity and type. Viscosity refers to the SAE rating like 5W-30 - the number before W indicates better cold starts when lower, while the number after W ensures summer stability when higher. In terms of types, mineral oil is cheaper but less heat-resistant, semi-synthetic offers balanced cost-performance, while full synthetic lasts longest. The API standard must match your vehicle manual - SUVs/trucks often use 10W-30, whereas 0W-20 makes sedans quieter. Through years of driving, I've found climate matters greatly - northern regions should choose low-W grades to prevent cold-start issues. Also note ACEA C2/C3 suits eco-engines; overlooking this shortens engine life. Cost-wise, try semi-synthetic first - regular changes outweigh model selection. Smooth engine operation hinges on these details.
Choosing the right lubricant model is really reassuring. The key is to look at the SAE viscosity, such as 5W-40, which indicates the temperature range it can handle. The ultra-thin 0W types are suitable for new cars, providing faster acceleration. The API performance level SP ensures efficient protection, while ACEA A5 offers energy-saving and low friction. Although full synthetic oil is more expensive, it saves fuel compared to mineral oil, making it cost-effective in the long run. Hybrid vehicles require specialized oil to avoid wear on the battery system. I can feel the difference on the highway—good oil makes the engine quieter and more responsive. Regular checks on oil quality prevent acidification and avoid costly overhauls.
