What Are the Types of Chassis Armor?

[Whitney]

Types of chassis armor: 1. Asphalt-based chassis anti-rust coating: This is an early anti-rust product that has now been phased out; 2. Oil-based chassis anti-rust coating: This type of product contains toxic substances harmful to human health. The formed coating layer is hard, lacks elasticity, and has poor sound insulation; 3. Water-soluble chassis anti-rust coating: Its diluent is water, making it healthy and environmentally friendly. It has strong adhesion, good elasticity of the coating layer, and significant chassis sound insulation, making it the preferred material for chassis armor; 4. Composite polymer resin paint: The fourth-generation environmentally friendly quick-drying chassis armor features high waterproofing, high elasticity, high corrosion resistance, and high sound absorption and noise reduction. Based on environmental friendliness, it utilizes a unique deep-layer ionization quaternary grafting technology to integrate four different types of polymer materials into one.

[GarrettLee]

I think the choice of undercoating depends on the material and purpose. Common asphalt-based ones are cheap and widely used, but prone to cracking in northern winters. Rubber-based coatings offer better sound insulation, significantly reducing tire noise on highways. Resin-based types are quite popular now, with excellent scratch resistance, especially suitable for areas with rough roads. Some premium products even feature elastic coatings that can deflect small stones. My neighbor just applied a composite material with three layers to his SUV – the undercarriage stayed spotless after off-roading. For coastal city driving, it's crucial to choose rust-proof water-based undercoating. Always have it applied by professionals, as DIY spraying often misses critical areas.

[AmirDella]

Straight to the point: 1) Regular asphalt-based undercoating is sufficient for city driving—don’t be fooled into overspending; 2) Rubber-infused coatings are ideal for family cars, reducing noise and preventing rust; 3) Resin-based types cost more but last 7-8 years—great for frequent off-road or construction site driving; 4) Water-based eco-friendly options are popular at dealerships but dry slowly; 5) DIY spray cans work for emergencies, but professional air pump application is needed for long-term protection. Focus on suspension joints and exhaust pipe areas—factory protection there is weakest. Annual coating checks are advised in regions with heavy rain/snow.

[DeOlive]

Last time I helped a friend with undercoating and picked up a few tips. The black granular type is mostly asphalt-based, which gets rock-hard in winter. The gray elastic variety is better - even a key scratch won't leave marks. The shop owner said thickness shouldn't exceed 4mm, or it'll increase fuel consumption. Friends in the south should choose anti-mold formulas - I've seen moldy undercoating with my own eyes! Pick a sunny day for application - the chassis must be cleaned with rust remover and dried before spraying. Use aluminum foil tape near the exhaust pipe to avoid bad odors when heated. Don't wash the car for three days after completion - the new coating can't handle water pressure.