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What Are the Types of Brakes?

4 Answers
MarleyRose
07/29/25 7:57pm

There are five types of brakes: disc brakes, drum brakes, band brakes, expanding brakes, and V-brakes. Below is a detailed introduction to each type: Disc brakes: These use hydraulic transmission, offer significant braking resistance, and provide excellent braking performance. They are commonly used in high-end vehicles and are becoming increasingly popular. Drum brakes: These employ mechanical transmission, have a smaller braking resistance arm compared to disc brakes, are cost-effective, and deliver good braking performance. Band brakes: These also use mechanical transmission with a smaller braking resistance arm than disc brakes. They were widely used in early electric vehicles and are characterized by a sharp screeching sound during braking. Expanding brakes: These provide effective and high-safety braking but are limited by wheel constraints, making modifications difficult. Due to structural differences, electric-assist vehicle rear wheels can only be fitted with expanding or band brakes. Drum brake pads are wider, offering greater friction torque and longer lifespan with less wear, but they require more operational torque. Expanding brakes are mostly manual, with long cables that have a shorter lifespan and inferior performance compared to drum brakes. V-brakes: A very common braking device on bicycles, they generate friction by clamping the wheel rim with two brake pads to achieve braking. Named for their 'V' shape, V-brakes are widely used in various bicycles and electric bikes. They are low-cost and easy to maintain but can be slippery on rainy, muddy, or water-covered roads. Braking precautions include: Avoid frequent braking on long downhill sections, as friction between brake pads and discs (or drums) generates heat. Excessive braking can cause overheating of the discs (or drums) and abnormal hardening (carbonization) of the brake pads, drastically reducing braking efficiency and potentially leading to accidents. On such roads, use low gear and minimal throttle, relying on the engine's low RPM to control speed. Avoid frequent use of emergency braking, which is a last-resort measure. Emergency braking significantly damages vehicle components, especially transmission and braking parts. It is said that one emergency brake can wear out braking components 30 to 50 times more than normal braking and cause substantial damage to other parts like the transmission. At higher speeds, braking can be done without pressing the clutch pedal while releasing the throttle, using the engine's drag to assist in slowing down. When speed decreases, promptly press the clutch pedal to prevent engine stalling due to RPM drops, which can harm the engine. Regularly check brake fluid levels, quality, and brake pad thickness. Immediately refill or replace if any abnormalities are detected.

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OAustin
08/14/25 3:47pm

I've been driving for over a decade and have tried various braking systems, mainly two basic types: drum and disc. Drum brakes work like a cylindrical structure with two brake shoes that create friction through pressure to slow down the vehicle. They are cost-effective but have poor heat dissipation and may fail under high temperatures. Disc brakes use calipers to clamp onto a rotating disc, offering quick response and excellent heat dissipation, making them ideal for high-speed driving. Nowadays, many vehicles use disc brakes for the front wheels. Additionally, the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) is crucial as it automatically releases to prevent skidding when wheels are about to lock up. Regenerative braking is popular in electric vehicles, recovering energy during deceleration to recharge the battery. During routine maintenance, drum brakes have more components and are more cumbersome to replace, while disc brakes make changing brake pads easier. Remember to regularly check the thickness of your brake pads to ensure driving safety.

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MollyDella
10/15/25 8:21am

From my experience in car ownership and maintenance regarding brake types: The common drum brakes have a simple structure, making them cost-effective for rear wheels, but they may squeak in rainy conditions; Disc brakes are lightweight and efficient, with most modern cars using them on the front wheels, offering much more responsive emergency braking. The ABS system once saved my life by preventing loss of control during hard braking; Regenerative braking in hybrid vehicles saves fuel and is environmentally friendly. In terms of replacement costs, disc brakes are slightly more expensive but more durable, while drum brakes are cheaper. It's recommended to replace brake fluid every two years to maintain proper hydraulic performance. These types perform differently in various driving environments—driving in mountainous areas often benefits from a combination of front disc and rear drum brakes for better stability.

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Adriana
11/29/25 2:24am

I often share braking knowledge: the basic types are drum and disc. Drum brakes use internal friction pads for braking, suitable for regular roads; disc brakes work by calipers clamping onto a rotor, offering better heat dissipation and performance. ABS prevents wheel lock-up, while regenerative braking in new energy vehicles recovers energy. Disc brakes are easier to replace parts for, while drum brakes have longer maintenance intervals. Safety first—regular checks are key.

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can you sell a car without it being smogged

No, you generally cannot legally sell a car that requires a smog check without providing a current, passing certificate. In most states, the seller is legally obligated to provide a valid smog certificate to the buyer at the time of sale. The specific rules, however, depend heavily on your state and local regulations. For example, in California, the seller must provide a certificate from a test performed within 90 days prior to the sale. Attempting to sell a car "as-is" without a smog certificate can lead to legal and financial repercussions for both parties. Understanding the Seller's Responsibility The responsibility for ensuring a vehicle passes emissions testing almost always falls on the seller. This is because you are transferring ownership of a vehicle that must meet certain environmental standards to be legally driven on public roads. Presenting a passing smog certificate is a way of certifying that the car complies with these standards at the moment of sale. Selling a car without one shifts the burden—and potential cost of repairs—onto the buyer, which is why most jurisdictions prohibit it. Key Exceptions to the Rule There are a few scenarios where a smog certificate might not be required. These often include: Sale to a Dealer: When you sell your car to a licensed automotive dealer. Transfer to a Family Member: In some states, certain intra-family transfers (e.g., between spouses, parents, and children) are exempt. Non-Operational or "Planned Non-Operation" (PNO) Sale: If the vehicle is officially registered as non-operational and the buyer understands it cannot be driven on public roads until it is repaired and smogged. Certain Vintage or Diesel Vehicles: Some states exempt older model year vehicles or specific types of diesel engines. The age threshold varies; for instance, some states exempt cars over 20 or 25 years old. State Smog Certificate Required at Sale? Typical Validity Period Notable Exemptions (Examples) California Yes, seller must provide 90 days prior to sale Model year 1975 and older; diesel vehicles model year 1997 and older; electric vehicles; motorcycles Texas Yes, in designated counties Varies by county; often 90 days New vehicles (first 2 years); model year 1995 and older; vehicles 25+ years old (varies) New York Yes, seller must provide 1 year Model year 1995 and older; new vehicles registered for the first time Florida No statewide requirement N/A N/A Pennsylvania Yes, for certain counties 1 year New vehicles (first 2 model years); model year 1975 and older; motorcycles Consequences of Selling Without a Smog Cert If you proceed with a sale without a required smog certificate, the buyer can typically rescind the sale and demand a full refund. You could also be held liable for the cost of any repairs needed for the car to pass the test. Furthermore, the new owner will be unable to register the vehicle in their name until they provide a passing certificate, which could lead to them driving illegally or filing a complaint against you. It's always safest to check your local DMV's website for the exact requirements in your area before listing your car for sale.
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can you rent a car without insurance canada

Yes, you can technically rent a car in Canada without having your own personal auto insurance policy. However, it is a significant financial risk. Rental companies are legally required to provide a minimum level of third-party liability coverage, but this is often insufficient. The real danger lies in damage to the rental vehicle itself. Without purchasing the rental company's Collision/Loss Damage Waiver (LDW) or having comparable coverage from a credit card, you would be personally responsible for the full cost of any repairs or if the car is stolen. The mandatory base liability coverage in provinces like Ontario is typically only $200,000, but most rental companies include a higher amount, often $1,000,000. This covers damage you might cause to other people or property. It does not cover the rental car. The LDW is not insurance but a waiver that relieves you of financial responsibility for damage to the rental car. Declining it means you are "self-insuring" the vehicle, which could lead to bills of thousands of dollars even for minor incidents. Whether your credit card offers primary or secondary coverage is critical. Primary coverage handles claims first, before your personal insurance. Secondary coverage only kicks in after your own auto insurance deductible has been applied. Many cards also exclude certain vehicle types like trucks, SUVs, or premium models. Consideration Without Insurance/LDW With Credit Card Coverage (Primary) With Rental Company LDW Financial Risk Very High. You are liable for all damage/theft. Low, but check your card's terms and conditions. Very Low. You are typically waiving all financial responsibility. Out-of-Pocket Cost for Accident Full repair cost (+ loss of use/admin fees). Usually $0, if the damage is covered. Usually $0, depending on the waiver terms. Coverage for Loss of Use Liable for rental income lost while car is repaired. Varies by card; some may cover it. Often included in the waiver. Coverage for Diminished Value Liable for the car's reduced resale value. Rarely covered by credit cards. Often included in the waiver. Required Action Must provide a large security deposit on the rental. Must pay for the rental with that specific card and decline LDW. Pay the daily fee for the waiver. Before you rent, verify your credit card's benefits document and call the number on the back of the card for confirmation. Understand what vehicle classes are covered and what documentation is required in case of a claim. If you do not have a card with adequate coverage, purchasing the rental company's LDW is the safest financial decision.
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can you start a car with a bad transmission

Yes, you can usually start a car with a bad transmission, but you likely won't be able to drive it normally. The engine and the transmission are two separate critical components. The engine's starter motor is responsible for turning the engine over, and as long as the battery is charged and the starter is functional, the engine will start. However, a severely damaged transmission may prevent power from being transferred to the wheels, making the car undrivable. The specific behavior depends heavily on the type of transmission and the nature of the failure. Automatic Transmission Failures: If an automatic transmission is failing, you might experience several scenarios when starting the car. The engine may start, but the car will not move when you shift into Drive or Reverse because the transmission cannot engage. In some cases, you might hear a whining or clunking noise from the transmission as soon as the engine starts. A common and critical point of failure is the torque converter , which is the component that connects the engine to the automatic transmission. If it fails, the connection is lost. Manual Transmission Failures: With a manual transmission, the link between the engine and the wheels is more direct. The car will start normally if the transmission is bad but the clutch is still operational. However, if the clutch is the source of the problem (e.g., it's completely worn out or the hydraulic system has failed), you may not be able to disengage the engine from the transmission. This can prevent the car from starting as a safety feature, or it may cause the car to lurch forward violently as soon as you turn the key. Risks of Starting and Operating the Car: Attempting to drive a car with a known bad transmission is highly discouraged. It can lead to: Complete Transmission Failure: You could cause further, more catastrophic damage, turning a repairable situation into one requiring a full replacement. Safety Hazards: The car could become stranded in traffic, lose power suddenly, or even catch fire if transmission fluid is leaking onto hot engine components. Getting Stuck: The vehicle might move a short distance and then stop, leaving you in a dangerous or inconvenient location. Transmission Type Common Starting Scenario with a Bad Transmission Primary Risk upon Starting Automatic Engine starts, but car does not move when shifted into gear. Causing further internal damage; vehicle is immobile. Manual (Bad Gearbox) Engine starts normally; inability to shift gears may be apparent. Difficult or grinding gear shifts; potential for getting stuck in gear. Manual (Bad Clutch) Car may not start (safety switch) or may lurch forward with key turn. Immediate safety hazard; sudden, uncontrolled vehicle movement. The only safe course of action is to have the vehicle towed to a qualified repair shop for a proper diagnosis.
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can you sell a car before you get the title

Yes, you can technically sell a car before you receive the physical title, but the process is complex, varies by state, and carries significant risk for the seller. The safest approach is to wait for the title. If you must proceed, the method depends on why you don't have the title. If you've just paid off a loan, you can contact your lienholder for a lien release and apply for a duplicate title. If you've lost the title, you can apply for a duplicate from your local DMV. The key is ensuring the buyer understands the situation and that you handle the paperwork correctly to avoid future liability. The primary risk for you, the seller, is that until the title is officially transferred into the buyer's name, you remain the legal owner. If the buyer gets into an accident or accumulates parking tickets, you could be held responsible. To mitigate this, you must complete a bill of sale and notify your state's DMV of the sale immediately. Some states have specific forms for this, like a "Release of Liability." The process also differs if there is an outstanding loan on the vehicle. The buyer's payment must first go to the lienholder to pay off the loan and release the title. This often requires coordination between you, the buyer, and the bank. Here is a comparison of common scenarios: Scenario Recommended Action Key Risk for Seller Typical Processing Time Title Lost or Mutilated Apply for a duplicate title from the DMV before listing the car. Selling with a "title application in process" can scare off buyers. 2 to 6 weeks Loan Recently Paid Off Contact the lienholder for a lien release letter; apply for the title. The buyer must wait for you to receive the title to complete the sale. 4 to 10 weeks Selling with Lien (Loan Not Paid) Coordinate with buyer and lender to pay off loan at time of sale. Complexity can cause the deal to fall through; seller remains liable until title clears. Varies by lender Inherited Vehicle Use a court-certified copy of the death certificate and executor paperwork to apply for a new title. Requires additional legal documents that can delay the sale. 4 to 8 weeks Out-of-State Title The buyer will typically handle titling in their state; provide a thorough bill of sale. Different state laws can create confusion over required paperwork. Varies by state Ultimately, full transparency with the buyer is non-negotiable. Explain the situation clearly, provide copies of all your paperwork (loan payoff confirmation, DMV application receipts), and draft a detailed bill of sale that states the title is pending. While it's possible, waiting for the physical title in hand is almost always the least stressful and safest path.
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can you sell a car with a broken windshield

Yes, you can sell a car with a broken windshield. However, the process is more complex and will significantly impact the car's value and the pool of potential buyers. The most straightforward path is to sell it "as-is" to a private buyer who is willing to handle the repair, or to a dealership or junkyard that will factor the repair cost into a lowball offer. For a safer and potentially more profitable sale, getting the windshield replaced before listing the car is often the best advice. The primary concern with a broken windshield is safety. A crack can obscure the driver's vision and compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle, as the windshield contributes to the roof's strength during a rollover. In most states, a car with a significantly damaged windshield will not pass the mandatory safety inspection required for transferring registration. This immediately limits your buyer options to those who can perform the repair themselves or are buying for parts. Your selling options generally break down as follows: Selling Method Typical Buyer Pros Cons Estimated Value Impact Private Sale (As-Is) DIY enthusiast, mechanic Potentially higher price than scrap Time-consuming, limited buyer pool, must disclose damage 30-50% below market value Sell to a Dealership New or used car dealer Fast, convenient transaction Lowest offer; repair cost fully deducted 40-60% below market value Sell to a Junkyard/Cash for Cars Scrap or parts company Very fast; car may not need to be drivable Absolute lowest price; car is typically crushed Scrap metal value + parts Repair then Sell General used car market Maximizes value, largest buyer pool Upfront cost and time for repair Minimal impact; cost of repair is recouped Before making a decision, get a quote for the windshield replacement. A simple replacement can cost between $200 and $400, while advanced models with sensors for ADAS (Advanced Driver-Assistance Systems) like automatic emergency braking can cost $1,000 or more. If the repair cost is low relative to the car's value, fixing it is almost always the smartest financial move. If the car is old or the repair is prohibitively expensive, selling as-is is a viable, though less lucrative, option. Always be transparent about the damage to avoid legal issues.
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can you return a used car from a dealership

The short answer is that returning a used car is generally difficult and not a guaranteed right. Unlike many consumer goods, used cars are typically sold "as-is," meaning you accept the vehicle with any existing flaws at the time of purchase. There is no universal "cooling-off period" or federal law that gives you a blanket right to return a used car in the United States. Your ability to return the vehicle depends almost entirely on the dealership's specific policy or if you can prove the dealer committed fraud or violated certain consumer protection laws. The most critical factor is the dealership's return policy. Some larger dealerships, especially franchised ones selling certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicles, may offer a short return window, often 3 to 7 days or a specific mileage limit like 250 miles. This is not a legal requirement but a customer satisfaction gesture. You must get all the details of this policy in writing before you buy. If a return policy exists, follow its procedures exactly, as missing a deadline by a single day can void your option. If the dealer does not have a return policy, your options are limited. Your primary recourse may be through your state's "Implied Warranty of Merchantability" laws, often referred to as "lemon laws" for used cars. These laws vary significantly by state but generally protect you if the car has a substantial defect that was present at the time of sale and renders it unreliable or unsafe. Proving this can require independent mechanic inspections and legal action. Another avenue is if the dealer knowingly misrepresented the car, such as rolling back the odometer or hiding a major accident. Scenario Likelihood of Return Key Action / Evidence Required Dealer has a written return policy High Adhere strictly to the policy's time/mileage limits and condition requirements. Violation of State "Lemon Law" Medium to Low Proof of a major, pre-existing defect; requires legal review of state statutes. Dealer Fraud (e.g., odometer rollback) Medium (with evidence) Documentation, photos, vehicle history reports proving intentional misrepresentation. You simply changed your mind Very Low No legal basis for return unless a specific policy exists. Mechanical failure after sale (sold "as-is") Extremely Low Buyer is responsible for repairs unless covered by a separate warranty. Your best defense is due diligence before signing. Have an independent mechanic inspect the car, carefully review the sales contract for any "as-is" disclosure, and explicitly ask about a return policy. If you encounter problems immediately after purchase, document everything and contact the dealership's general manager in writing before seeking legal advice.
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