
Engine seizure symptoms include abnormal engine noise, lack of power, noticeable exhaust emissions, stalling at idle, etc. A seized engine can be repaired by boring the cylinder and replacing the piston. The relevant information about engine seizure is as follows: Causes of engine seizure: The causes of engine seizure include poor cylinder lubrication, insufficient break-in, cooling issues, abnormal piston ring operation, use of low-quality fuel, and incorrect repair or assembly. Solutions for engine seizure: If detected early, it can be repaired at a maintenance shop by simply boring the cylinder and installing oversized pistons. If the cylinder wall scratches are too deep or the piston components are severely worn, repair may not be feasible, and a major overhaul with replacement of new components is necessary. In severe cases, the entire cylinder block may need to be replaced.

This is a common sight in repair shops. The most obvious symptom of a scored engine is that it consumes oil extremely quickly. You might have just topped up the oil, but after driving a thousand kilometers or so, the dipstick can't detect any oil left. The engine noise also becomes abnormal, especially during cold starts when you can hear hollow clunking sounds from the cylinder block. After warming up, it turns into metallic grinding noises, like filing iron with a rasp. The performance is downright pitiful—when climbing a hill, even with the accelerator pedal floored, the RPM won't rise, and the exhaust pipe puffs out blue smoke. Last week, an old Passat was towed in. The owner said the engine suddenly started jerking like an asthma attack when overtaking on the highway. Upon disassembly, we found deep grooves scored into the cylinder walls. Remember, if you smell burnt oil or see blue oil dripping from the exhaust pipe, shut off the engine immediately and call a tow truck. Driving any further could mean needing a whole new engine!

I've experienced three cases of cylinder scoring in my 30 years of driving. Initially, the engine oil would inexplicably decrease, requiring two top-ups between service intervals. Then I noticed the engine struggling when accelerating, especially obvious during highway overtaking. The most alarming symptom was the change in exhaust smell – a pungent burnt oil odor with black oily stains around the tailpipe. Once at a red light, the idle suddenly became unstable, with the tachometer needle dancing erratically. I recommend keeping oil inspection test strips in your car – if you find metal particles, act immediately. These issues develop gradually over time. Using full synthetic oil regularly can help delay such problems.

Detecting cylinder scoring faults is quite straightforward. First, monitor oil consumption - if it exceeds half a liter per 1,000 kilometers, be alert. Start the engine and listen: when fully warmed up, depress the accelerator sharply; if you hear metallic scraping sounds like metal-on-metal contact from the engine bay, that's usually conclusive. Diagnostic trouble codes will typically show multiple cylinder misfires, and compression tests often reveal pressures below 7 kg/cm². Exhaust gas analyzers will detect skyrocketing hydrocarbon levels. If you place a white tissue over the tailpipe for ten seconds, visible oil stains will appear. For DIY checks, pull out the dipstick to smell for burnt odors and inspect if the oil appears black with metallic glitter.


