
After thoroughly cleaning the entire vehicle, identify the type of the old coating, assess the extent of damage to the workpiece, and determine the repair process. Protect the area around the damaged part with masking paper and degrease the area that needs to be sanded. Select the appropriate type of sandpaper and sander to remove the old paint from the damaged area and create a feathered edge. After cleaning and degreasing the workpiece, apply an appropriate amount of putty and dry it using an infrared heating lamp. Once the workpiece is sanded, use an air gun to remove dust from the surface and wipe the area around the putty with a degreaser.

Last time I sprayed the hood myself, I ended up covered in paint. Now I understand the process. First, you need to sand the original paint clean, using 800-grit sandpaper to remove rust and old paint, making sure to cover all edges and crevices. Then wash the car to remove grease—I wiped it down with alcohol three times to be sure. For any dents, apply body filler, wait half a day for it to dry, then sand it smooth. After that, cover the lights and windows tightly with masking film, even stuffing newspapers into door gaps. Spray primer in two thin layers, waiting 20 minutes between coats—steady hands are key. Shake the color paint well and apply three to four coats, waiting half an hour between each. The final clear coat is the trickiest—keep the spray gun 30 cm away and move at a steady speed. Let it dry for a week without washing, then polish out any orange peel. I saved two thousand bucks doing it myself, but it was definitely time-consuming.

In our shop, painting follows standardized procedures. First, remove the attachments to reduce masking workload. After metal repair, use a dry grinder to sand down to the bare metal layer, and clean with professional degreaser. Apply putty in two coats, ensuring each layer is completely dry. During masking, pay special attention to protecting rubber parts and wiring harness connectors—once a new employee failed to seal the window properly and had to compensate the customer for interior cleaning. Spray painting strictly adheres to the manufacturer's process sheet, controlling temperature and humidity. Prime coat is sanded to P800 grit, base coat is applied in three layers with 15-minute intervals, and clear coat is baked at 70°C to accelerate curing. Final quality inspection checks for orange peel and color mismatch—rework if necessary. Though the equipment is expensive, the paint won't bubble for five years.

I learned my lesson the hard way with painting. That time I rushed it and ended up with a surface full of bubbles. Later, a master taught me to first clean the area to be painted with detergent, then use P320 sandpaper to create scratches for better adhesion. Small dents need to be filled with metal putty, and after drying, check with a light for any missed spots. Using masking tape for neat edges is more convenient than newspapers, and the corners need to be pressed tightly. Gray primer shows color better, and two thin coats are enough. Prepare about 200 milliliters of color paint, and spray at a distance of 20 cm in a steady Z-pattern. Clear coat can be applied a couple more times to increase glossiness. After finishing, leave it in the garage for three days without touching it. For later polishing, use rubbing compound to deal with any runs. If you want to try it yourself, I suggest practicing on an old door panel first.


