What are the steps and precautions for changing engine oil?
3 Answers
Steps for changing engine oil: 1. Lift the car, remove the protective plate, and place a container of about 10 liters under the oil drain plug; 2. Unscrew the oil drain plug, use an air gun to blow for two minutes at the oil filler port, tighten the oil drain plug after draining, and wipe it with a tissue to check for leaks; 3. Reinstall the protective plate, lower the car, and add engine oil using a funnel aligned with the oil filler port. Precautions for changing engine oil: 1. Drain the oil when it is hot for better fluidity; 2. Fill to the level indicated on the dipstick; 3. Choose the oil change interval based on the car's condition, road conditions, oil quality, and driving habits; 4. Select the oil grade according to the driving environment, driving frequency, and the requirements of the vehicle's engine itself—prefer higher quality over lower.
I'm familiar with changing engine oil. First, drive the car for ten minutes to thin out the old oil for a cleaner drain. Park on level ground, engage the handbrake, and place a brick behind the wheels to prevent rolling. Slide under the car, locate the drain plug, and loosen it with a socket wrench, using a pan to catch the dark old oil. Wait fifteen minutes for it to fully drip out. While you're at it, unscrew the old oil filter, apply a layer of new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter, and tighten it. Remember to replace the drain plug washer and avoid over-tightening to prevent stripping. Before pouring in new oil, double-check the type to avoid mistakes—a 4-liter bottle usually leaves half a liter unused, so don't force it all in. Start the engine and let it run for two minutes, then turn it off and wait five minutes to check the dipstick, topping up to the middle mark for perfection. Dispose of the old oil at an auto shop for recycling—never pour it down the drain, as that's unethical. For your first time, it's best to have an experienced mechanic supervise—don't risk engine damage to save a few bucks.
Almost botched my DIY oil change last week – here are the hard lessons. Don’t skimp on tools: Use a dedicated drain pan for used oil; regular basins spill black sludge everywhere. A strap wrench is mandatory for filter removal – I deformed the housing with pliers. Pour 3/4 of fresh oil first, run the engine for 2 minutes to circulate, then top up to mid-mark after 10 minutes. Follow manual intervals religiously – full synthetic needs changing at 8,000km. Critical: repair shops take used oil free – dumping it risks fines. Low-clearance cars require ramps; wrenching under chassis is impossible. Newbies should pay $50 for pro service – oil-soaked shirts never wash clean.
