What are the reasons why the hood cannot be closed?

[DeJohnny]

The hood may not close properly due to the release lever inside the cabin being stuck and not returning to its original position, or it could be caused by rust or debris stuck in the locking mechanism. Applying some rust remover or lubricant to the moving parts of the lock mechanism can help. The functions of a car hood are as follows: Airflow Guidance: For objects moving at high speeds through air, the air resistance and turbulence generated around the object can directly affect its trajectory and speed. The shape of the hood can effectively adjust the direction of airflow relative to the car's movement and the resulting resistance, reducing the impact of airflow on the vehicle. Protection for the Engine and Surrounding Components: Under the hood lie critical components of the car, including the engine, electrical circuits, fuel system, braking system, and transmission system. By enhancing the strength and construction of the hood, it can effectively guard against adverse effects such as impacts, corrosion, rain, and electrical interference, ensuring the vehicle operates normally. Assisting Driver Visibility: While driving, the driver's forward visibility and the reflection of natural light are crucial for accurately judging road conditions and what lies ahead. The shape of the hood can effectively adjust the direction and form of reflected light, thereby minimizing its impact on the driver. Preventing Accidents: The engine operates in a high-temperature, high-pressure, and flammable environment, where there is a risk of explosions, fires, or leaks due to overheating or accidental damage to components. The hood can effectively block injuries caused by explosions, acting as a protective shield. It also helps to isolate air and prevent the spread of flames, reducing the risk and extent of fire damage.

[Tiffany]

Last time my old Jetta had the same annoying issue. If the hood won't close properly, check these key areas: First, inspect the latch mechanism for any stuck twigs or debris - use a flashlight to examine the lock groove. The left and right locking tongues might be misaligned; try repeatedly pressing the safety latch release while opening and closing the hood a few times. For older cars with worn-out hinges, you'll hear creaking sounds near the hinge base - temporarily shim it with copper sheets if needed. The worst scenario is deformed fender panels from collisions, which you can visually identify by uneven panel gaps. In my case, leaking hydraulic struts were preventing closure, so I had to temporarily secure it with wire ties to drive to the repair shop. Never force it shut by hammering - aluminum alloy hoods will get permanently damaged. Just gently adjust until properly aligned.

[IsabellaMarie]

A personal experience: Once, while replacing the air filter myself, I forgot to remove the fuse box cover. The foam cover got stuck under the latch, causing the hood to pop open three times in a row. This is a common mistake among beginners. Another issue is with the double-latch mechanism—sometimes the main latch hooks while the secondary latch fails to reset, leaving the safety hook dangling in mid-air. In such cases, you'll need to crawl under the car and pull the emergency release cord. Also, those who've modified their intake with a cone filter should be cautious, as oversized piping can compress the hood insulation. The most dangerous scenario is when the latch pin wears out and fails to retract, causing the hood to fly open mid-drive and shatter the windshield. If you don't hear the latch click shut, never drive off.

[Rocha]

Auto repair shops most commonly encounter three situations: First, the hood being forcefully pressed down by children causes the hinge bracket to deform, resulting in a higher gap on the right side and a lower one on the left. Second, car wash workers randomly spraying lubricant leads to dust accumulation and stickiness in the latch. Third, hydraulic struts freezing in sub-zero winter temperatures and failing to retract. Experienced mechanics can identify the issue just by looking at the gap. A uniform gap top and bottom indicates the latch isn't engaged; a gap wider at the front and narrower at the back means the buffer rubber mount has collapsed; misalignment left and right definitely indicates frame damage. An emergency fix is repeatedly lifting the hood 30 centimeters and letting it free-fall—seven out of ten times it will latch.