
Window three buttons at the same time failure of the reasons are as follows: The voltage is too low: The reason why the window will rise and fall is driven by the window regulator, if the car battery voltage is too low, it may lead to the window rise and fall failure, that is, the car has not been driven for a long time, the car will appear discharge situation, so if the car is not driven for a long time, the battery should be charged to maintain sufficient voltage, so that the problem will not occur. The circuit has a problem: It should be known that there are many parts inside the door. If the door is closed with great force, some parts inside will become loose, which will lead to poor contact of the switch. It happens that the window lifting is controlled by electricity, which is the reason for the lifting failure.

I've noticed this issue mostly occurs in older vehicle models. There's a problem with the shared circuit section of the window system, most likely the main control fuse has blown - it's located in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I encountered this in my own car, and upon inspection found a 10A fuse with a broken filament. If replacing the fuse doesn't solve it, the master control switch on the driver's door panel might be faulty. This switch handles signal transmission for all windows, and if its internal contacts wear out, everything fails. Wiring shorts can also cause this, especially if the wiring harness under the driver's seat gets damaged by long-term friction from floor mats. I'd advise against DIY door panel removal - the wiring connectors are delicate and you might cause more problems. The easiest solution is to take it to a repair shop and have them test the current with a multimeter.

As someone who frequently helps car enthusiasts with electrical issues, I must say it's rarely a coincidence when multiple buttons fail simultaneously. The key is to identify shared components, such as a damaged shared relay or control module for power window motors. Control modules in modern vehicles are particularly susceptible to voltage fluctuations – if you jump-start a car with a depleted battery, it might burn out the module contacts. Last time I worked on a vehicle, upon removing the door panel, I discovered the main switch connector had been splashed with soda, causing complete oxidation of the metal terminals. Always start by checking the simplest locations: the F-marked fuses in the fuse box, then measure the resistance of the main switch. If it's a control module failure, resetting the infotainment system might provide a temporary fix, but it won't address the root cause.

With 20 years of auto repair experience, the core issue here lies in the shared circuit design. Focus on three key areas: a blown window-specific fuse in the fuse box, damage to the master window switch assembly, or poor grounding in the wiring harness. Many vehicles suffer from aged wiring where cracked rubber insulation causes short circuits between power wires and ground. Always disconnect power before working to prevent ECU damage. Using a multimeter to test switch terminal continuity is most accurate, though newer vehicles with anti-pinch features may enter protection mode and temporarily malfunction. Address such issues promptly to avoid being unable to open windows during rain, which could lead to fogging and visibility problems.


