What are the reasons for the ignition switch failure in MG6?
2 Answers
The causes of ignition system failure in MG6 include: common faults in the low-voltage circuit, insufficient battery charge. Here are other reasons: Poor or incorrect wiring connections: Poor grounding of the battery, damage to the distributor or Hall sensor, damage to the ignition switch or poor wiring, damage to the transistor ignition control unit or poor wiring. The diagnostic method for low-voltage circuit faults mostly involves using an ammeter or voltmeter to check each line sequentially to eliminate the fault point. Common faults in the high-voltage circuit: High-voltage wire detachment or leakage, distributor cap cracking or breakdown, distributor rotor burning, cracking or breakdown, excessive or insufficient spark plug electrode gap, excessive carbon buildup on spark plugs, damage to the spark plug insulator, damage to the ignition coil or wire detachment.
I've been driving this MG6 for over five years, and the ignition switch has gotten stuck several times. The usual cause is severe wear and tear from long-term use of the key, where the teeth get flattened or broken, making it hard to turn. It could also be due to aging internal components of the switch, such as spring fatigue or oxidized contacts leading to poor connectivity, especially in humid weather when oxidation is more likely. Dust and small debris buildup in the keyhole is another common issue—I clean the switch hole daily with a cotton swab to sweep away dust. If you encounter this issue, don’t force the key; try gently turning it back and forth a few times. If that doesn’t work, switch to the spare key. Electrical issues like a faulty anti-theft module or loose power wiring could also be the culprit, so I recommend visiting a professional shop to check the relays and wiring with diagnostic tools. Regular maintenance is key—I use rust inhibitor spray to prevent oxidation and extend the switch’s lifespan.
