
The reasons for loud engine noise at idle are: 1. The engine oil does not meet the standard or the amount of oil added exceeds the standard, causing unnecessary resistance to the crankshaft rotation, thereby affecting power output; 2. The engine fuel is not fully consumed during frequent use of the car, leading to carbon deposits in the engine; 3. The engine mount pads are aging or loose, affecting the engine and increasing noise. The types of car engines vary depending on different situations: according to power, they are divided into diesel engines, gasoline engines, electric vehicle motors, and hybrid power; according to the intake system, they are divided into naturally aspirated, turbocharged, mechanically supercharged, and twin-charged.

Increased engine noise at idle is something I've encountered several times. It's usually related to aging engine mounts - when the rubber cracks, the vibration damping effect disappears, and engine vibrations are directly transmitted to the body. The belt system is another common noise source; loose alternator belts or AC belts can cause squeaking sounds. Carbon buildup is often overlooked - deposits near fuel injectors can cause unstable combustion of the air-fuel mixture, producing a knocking sound. Another issue is exhaust manifold gasket leaks, where escaping exhaust gas creates a whistling noise. These faults are often accompanied by steering wheel vibrations. The most troublesome situation occurs when the entire mounting rubber collapses in older vehicles, requiring complete replacement. Regular inspection of engine mounting components is recommended.

Last time my car's idle noise suddenly increased, and after troubleshooting, it turned out to be an engine oil issue. Old engine oil loses its lubricating performance, making metal friction sounds more noticeable. A clogged air filter can also cause this, as insufficient air intake leads to incomplete combustion, resulting in a dull roar from the engine. Spark plug aging and ignition coil failures should not be overlooked either, as delayed ignition can make the engine sound hoarse. A faulty water pump bearing is even more annoying, producing a sharp metal grinding noise. Another hidden issue lies in the timing chain, which can rattle when overly stretched, especially in turbocharged cars. All these indicate uncoordinated engine operation and require professional diagnosis. Using full synthetic oil regularly can effectively extend component lifespan.

Idling noises often indicate internal faults. Worn piston rings produce a puffing sound from air leakage, especially noticeable with insufficient cylinder pressure. Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance causes a dull knocking sound, while damaged connecting rod bearings create a crisp tapping noise, resembling someone hitting an iron bucket. A deformed oil pan can lead to oil pump cavitation, generating high-frequency whining. Such mechanical damage also accelerates oil consumption - for example, leaking valve stem seals will cause blue smoke from the exhaust pipe. It's recommended to immediately stop and check the dipstick oil level, as insufficient oil will suddenly worsen the noise. If necessary, temporarily switch to higher viscosity oil as an interim measure.

The most exaggerated idle noise I've experienced was from an exhaust pipe leak. The popping sound from aged gaskets was particularly loud, especially with the echo in the garage. Cooling system failures are also culprits - a stuck thermostat causes the fan to spin at high speed, creating constant humming at the front. Worn high-pressure fuel pumps produce rhythmic knocking, while clogged injectors make ticking noises. Interestingly, poor fuel quality can also cause noise, as gasoline with impurities creates pinging detonation sounds during combustion. These conditions often come with surging fuel consumption and power loss. It's recommended to clean the fuel system every 20,000 km to prevent worsening problems.


