What are the reasons and faults when an electric tricycle has power but won't move?
3 Answers
Brake power cutoff failure, throttle handle Hall circuit failure, etc. The following is a related introduction about tricycles: Introduction: A tricycle is a means of transportation transformed from a bicycle, which can carry people or transport goods. It became very popular after the 1930s and gradually replaced the status of rickshaws. Tricycles are a combination of rickshaws and bicycles. Tricycles can be divided into manual tricycles, electric tricycles, children's tricycles, and battery-powered tricycles. Classification: Manual tricycles are three-wheeled bicycles equipped with a carriage or flatbed for carrying people or goods. Electric tricycles are characterized by their beautiful appearance, energy-saving and labor-saving features, good climbing performance, flexible steering, economic practicality, reliable quality, and environmental friendliness. Motorized tricycles refer to three-wheeled vehicles driven or towed by a power device, excluding those designed with maximum speed, unladen mass, and dimensions that comply with national standards for disabled motorized wheelchairs.
As a mechanic, I've seen too many cases where electric tricycles have power but won't move. The most common issue is a faulty controller - the motor won't receive signals and naturally won't operate. It could also be problems with the motor itself, like burnt coils or seized bearings that prevent it from turning. Wiring connections need special attention too, particularly the cables between the battery and controller - loose or corroded connections can cause trouble. A stuck brake cutoff switch is even more annoying as the system thinks you're constantly braking. Oh, and sometimes the circuit breaker trips without being obvious - you need to press it to check. Methodically checking these areas is better than just worrying. If you can't fix it yourself, it's wiser to consult a professional mechanic.
I've encountered a similar situation before. At the time, I thought the battery was dead, but actually, a displayed charge doesn't necessarily mean it's usable. Use a multimeter to check the voltage—if it's below 42 volts, the controller won't work. Focus on checking the throttle and wiring connectors. Last time, my bike's throttle wire was broken, and twisting it all the way had no effect. The brake switch is also prone to issues—try squeezing it a couple of times to see if it rebounds smoothly. There's also motor temperature protection; it will stop if it overheats and resume once it cools down. If the wheel feels very heavy when pushing the bike, it might be due to rusted bearings or locked brakes. Don't rush to replace parts—first try scraping off the oxidation layer on the battery terminals, as poor contact is a common issue.
