
There are several main misconceptions about engine oil usage: More oil is better than less: As we all know, insufficient oil can directly lead to inadequate lubrication of the engine, causing cylinder scoring. Therefore, some car owners cleverly add excessive amounts of oil, unaware that too much oil can seep into the combustion chamber through the gap between the cylinder and piston, participating in combustion and accelerating carbon deposit formation. A large accumulation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can alter the engine's air-fuel ratio, increasing the occurrence of knocking; carbon deposits in the cylinder can accelerate wear on the cylinder and piston, and also speed up oil contamination. Mixing different engine oils: Different engine oils not only have varying base oil components but also differ in the additives they use. Mixing them can degrade or nullify the original performance of the oil, ultimately leading to severe engine wear, accelerated sludge formation, and even piston ring breakage.

As experienced drivers, we all know the most common misconception about engine oil is blindly believing expensive ones are better. Many think imported premium full synthetic oils must protect the engine better, but actually you should check the viscosity specified in the manual. I've seen a friend buy top-tier 0W-40 oil, only to find his old Santana actually consumed more fuel with it. Don't forget environmental factors either – in northern winters, you need oil with good low-temperature fluidity. Veteran drivers also tend to get lazy, exceeding mileage limits without changing oil, thinking darker color doesn't matter. Once my engine developed sludge precisely because I delayed oil changes too long. Most crucially, never mix different oil brands randomly – their chemical additives can react and damage the engine. Truth is, changing genuine mineral oil on schedule is far better than using expired full synthetic oil.

Car enthusiasts who love modifying their vehicles often obsess over engine oil, but high viscosity doesn't necessarily mean high performance. After installing a turbocharger, I once specifically switched to a racing-grade 60 viscosity oil, only to see the oil pressure gauge needle bounce during cold starts. Performance oils usually contain more aggressive additives, which can actually corrode the seals in regular civilian vehicles. Those ester-based racing oils lose effectiveness in just three months and are totally unsuitable for daily commuter cars. Another common misconception is saving leftover oil after maintenance for future use—once opened, the additives oxidize and degrade within six months, and continued use can lead to carbon buildup. For those who've modified their intake and exhaust systems, high-revving engines do require special oil formulations. In reality, sticking to the manufacturer's certified standards is the safest bet.

Budget-conscious car owners often use low-quality engine oil to save money, which is really not worth it. The bulk oil from community repair shops in those big metal drums has insufficient anti-wear additives. My neighbor tried saving money by using it once, and the oil warning light came on after just 5,000 kilometers. Some people even use aftermarket oil filters to save on maintenance costs, only to have the filter media break and clog the oil passages. In fact, although full synthetic oil is more expensive, it extends oil change intervals and is more economical in the long run. When changing oil yourself, pay extra attention to safety. I once saw a young man draining oil on a slope without using bricks to support the car, and the undercarriage got damaged. Don't just look at the price when choosing oil; the API certification mark is the most reliable indicator.


