What are the methods to distinguish genuine from fake used catalytic converters?
3 Answers
Methods to distinguish genuine from fake used catalytic converters are as follows: 1. Pore arrangement: In a normal catalytic converter, the pores of the internal porous ceramic should be uniformly arranged and consistent in size, with the porous ceramic being clean and relatively white (a yellowish beige color indicates a fake). 2. Assembly: The porous ceramic inside the catalytic converter, serving as a carrier, should be firmly and securely assembled with the outer shell, with no signs of looseness (even slight looseness is unacceptable). 3. Dimensions: The replacement catalytic converter should match the original factory dimensions in terms of size, the material of the internal porous ceramic, the arrangement pattern of the pores, and the number of rows. 4. Steel stamp: The encapsulation of the catalytic converter must be performed by an enterprise with nationally recognized environmental qualifications, and the manufacturer's steel stamp must be printed on it.
To identify a fake used catalytic converter, start with its appearance and weight. Genuine ones usually have clear brand logos and serial numbers on the casing—you can verify the code with your phone. The welding points should be smooth and even; fakes often have rough weld marks. Weight is crucial—the precious metals inside make real ones heavy, while lightweight ones are likely adulterated. Test the casing with a magnet: genuine stainless steel won’t stick, but fake iron casings will. Check the end connections—original cuts are smooth, while refurbished ones often show grinding marks. The most reliable method is to have a professional inspect the internal honeycomb structure with a borescope: genuine ones have uniform, dense cells, while fakes may use clay fillers to cheat.
I've disassembled hundreds of catalytic converters, and the differences between genuine and fake ones mainly lie in the details. First, check the surface anti-counterfeiting marks - authentic ones have laser-engraved serial numbers with neat, non-blurred fonts. Then use a strong flashlight to inspect the exhaust ports: genuine converters have honeycomb structures resembling orderly beehives, while fakes have uneven hole sizes or even blockages. Weight is crucial - a standard fist-sized catalytic converter weighs about 1.5kg; a difference of 100-150g indicates suspicion. The difference becomes more obvious when cut open: genuine substrates are gray ceramic bodies with platinum-palladium-rhodium coatings showing metallic luster, while fakes may use cement mixed with iron powder that crumbles easily. Always bring a magnet when recycling - genuine converter shells are never magnetic. Be wary of prices that are too low - rhodium is now more expensive than gold, and even scrap converters are worth hundreds.
