
There are no hazards. It can reduce the possibility of engine oil being oxidized by these harmful substances and enhance the antioxidant properties of the oil. Below is an introduction to engine oil knowledge: 1. Introduction: Engine oil, also known as engine lubricant, with a density of approximately 0.91×10³ (kg/m³), serves functions such as lubrication and wear reduction, auxiliary cooling, sealing and leakage prevention, rust and corrosion protection, and shock absorption. It is hailed as the 'blood' of a car. Engine oil consists of base oil and additives. The base oil is the main component of lubricating oil, determining its fundamental properties, while additives compensate for and improve the shortcomings of the base oil, imparting new properties, making them an essential part of lubricating oil. 2. Requirements: As a type of machinery, engines have common requirements for lubricating oil similar to general machinery, such as appropriate viscosity, certain anti-oxidation, anti-wear, anti-corrosion, and viscosity-temperature performance requirements. However, engines are also a special type of machinery, and their requirements for lubricating oil have unique aspects.

I found that excessive use of polyetheramine additives can indeed harm engine oil, especially high-concentration PEA. This stuff forms deposits when it enters the engine oil, clashing with the detergents in the oil and causing sludge buildup. The most troublesome part is clogging the oil filter—I've seen a case where the filter was completely blocked after just 5,000 kilometers. Moreover, PEA degrades the oil's oxidation resistance, causing premature aging and a rapid drop in viscosity. If your car already burns some oil, mixing PEA in can generate even more deposits. My advice is to carefully measure the dosage when using fuel additives—don't overdo it—and it's safer to shorten the oil change interval as well.

From a practical vehicle usage perspective, the main damage PEA causes to engine oil lies in carbon deposit transfer. The carbon deposits it cleans don't just disappear - a significant portion ends up circulating in the oil. I conducted a test on my old turbocharged car: after using two bottles of high-concentration PEA consecutively and checking the dipstick, metallic-looking suspended particles were visible. The most noticeable effect was rapid oil degradation - the oil film strength noticeably weakened after just 3,000 km. Some mechanics claim it can also react with ester-based oils, creating gelatinous substances. Now I always make sure to take a highway drive before each minor service, allowing the cleaning residue to be circulated out as much as possible.

The solution is actually simpler than expected. First, choose the right engine oil - fully synthetic oils with A3B4 or SP specifications are more resistant to PEA residues. Always change to fresh oil before adding additives to ensure basic engine cleanliness. Schedule immediately after running through a full tank of fuel - don't delay. If using non-continuous injection type additives, remember to use a fuel system cleaner every 5,000 kilometers as a countermeasure. Most importantly, monitor the oil condition - stop usage immediately if you notice thinning or flocculation.

Be extra cautious when mixing additives. Once I used a compound formula containing both PEA and PIBA, which resulted in syrup-like gum deposits forming in the engine oil. Later, a friend from the lab explained that different amine compounds can undergo cross-linking reactions under high temperatures. This is especially problematic for tuned vehicles with reprogrammed ECUs, as higher combustion chamber temperatures increase the risks. Now I avoid multi-purpose products altogether - for combustion chamber carbon cleaning I use standalone PEA only, and for intake valve deposits I've switched to more reliable manual walnut shell blasting.

habits can prevent many issues. I make it a practice to use fuel system cleaner 500 kilometers before each oil change, aligning the cleaning cycle with the maintenance schedule. Always opt for long-life oil filters, like the Mann HU series with synthetic fiber media, which excels at resisting contamination. During each service, save a bit of used oil for blotter testing—if the oil ring shows jagged deposits after spreading, it's time to adjust the additive regimen. For older vehicles, I recommend pairing with Liqui Moly Engine Flush, specifically designed to dissolve sludge deposits in lubrication passages. Remember: when using additives, pay extra attention to your oil's condition.


