
There are issues when there are cracks inside a car belt. Once the belt shows such conditions, it should not be used any further. If not replaced for a long time, it may lead to belt breakage, which in turn can cause the engine to stall. The consequences of not replacing it in time and the reasons for regular replacement are as follows: Consequences of not replacing in time: If the timing belt breaks while driving, it can cause the engine to experience valve collision. Repairing an engine with damaged valves can be relatively costly. When fine cracks appear on the surface where the belt contacts the pulley, it needs to be replaced. If the belt breaks, it can cause the generator to stop producing electricity, the power steering pump to fail, and the steering to become unresponsive, which is a very dangerous situation. Reasons for regular replacement: Some car engines still use timing belts. Belts are rubber products, and it is normal for rubber products to age over time with prolonged use. Therefore, belts need to be replaced regularly.

A few days ago, my neighbor Old Wang's pickup truck broke down because of this issue. The belt is like the tire's carcass layer—cracks inside indicate severe rubber aging. Cracks reduce the belt's strength, especially during cold starts in winter, making it prone to snapping. If it's the alternator belt that breaks, at worst, the will drain and the car will stall. But if it's the timing belt that cracks, it's even scarier: the engine stopping outright is the best-case scenario. In some car models, the valves and pistons can collide, leading to repairs costing half the car's value. I once saw a case at the repair shop where the owner kept driving with a cracked belt, and the fragments got tangled in the water pump shaft, ruining the entire cooling system. So, if you see spiderweb-like fine cracks on the side of the belt, regardless of mileage, it's best to replace it immediately.

As a frequent visitor to auto repair shops, I have some experience. There are three types of belt cracks: surface crazing is normal aging, but if you see longitudinal cracks at the root of the rib grooves, it's dangerous. Once, my car made a chirping sound during acceleration, and upon inspection, I found a stone stuck in a crack of the A/C belt, causing it to deform and slip. The most troublesome issue is that cracks can absorb engine oil and coolant, which corrodes the rubber and makes it more prone to breaking. Last week, while helping a customer with an inspection, I used a special caliper to measure—if there are more than five cracks in a 1 cm length, the belt must be replaced. By the way, I’d like to remind everyone: when replacing the belt, the tensioner pulley should be replaced as well. Many car owners don’t know this, and as a result, the new belt gets damaged by the old pulley within just two months.

The worst nightmare when taking kids to and from school is breaking down halfway. A cracked belt initially only squeaks during cold starts, but cracks make the belt stiff. Last week on the way to piano lessons, the steering wheel suddenly became heavy—the power steering pump belt's crack had widened. This kind of progressive failure is the most dangerous, as many wait until the belt completely snaps before fixing it. A mechanic taught me how to check belt health: press your thumb into the deepest groove of the belt—if it depresses about 1 cm, it's still elastic and fine; if it feels like cardboard, it's time to replace it. Also, pay extra attention during rainy seasons—water trapped in cracks accelerates rubber degradation. Once after a heavy storm, I saw a customer’s belt crack swollen like squid tentacles, nearly warping the crankshaft pulley.

Back when I worked in a rally team's logistics, I saw all sorts of belt issues. Cracks deeper than 3mm should raise alarms, especially on modern V-ribbed belts. Once during a pre-race check, we found lateral cracks on the outer side of a turbocharged car's timing belt – actually caused by misaligned pulleys creating uneven wear. Pay special attention to cracks on the belt's smooth backside; fractures here can make the belt suddenly curl. Team standard was: visible white cord layer at belt tooth roots (rubber cracked through) meant immediate replacement. Regular owners can monthly pop the hood, use flashlight to inspect belt sides, and check grooves for oil leaks – engine oil is rubber's mortal enemy.

I've been running an auto parts store for ten years. If the longitudinal cracks on a belt exceed 1/5 of its total length, it's recommended to replace it. However, many people are reluctant to do so, and in the end, belt fragments get stuck in the crankshaft position sensor, causing the engine to stall. The most commonly overlooked aspect is belt tension: press the midpoint of the longest span with your index finger, and an ideal deflection is 0.5 cm. A cracked belt that's too tight will shorten its lifespan, while one that's too loose is prone to slipping. Last month, there was a 7-year-old SUV where cracked belts caused friction-generated heat, melting dents into the plastic casing. Also, pay attention to the date code next to the belt number; rubber has a lifespan of only five to six years, so even if the mileage is low, it should be replaced.


