
The drawbacks of a conventional differential: Due to a wheel being suspended and spinning freely, once such a situation occurs, the differential continuously transmits power to the free-spinning wheel without resistance. As a result, the vehicle not only fails to move forward but also loses a significant amount of power. The differential is designed to create speed differences between the wheels, allowing for reasonable torque distribution between the left and right wheels during turns to achieve proper turning effects. When the engine's power passes through the clutch, transmission, and driveshaft, and undergoes speed reduction and torque increase via the axle's final drive, it then faces the task of torque distribution between the left and right wheels. This enables the wheels to rotate at different speeds, allowing them to travel unequal distances in as pure a rolling motion as possible, thereby reducing friction between the tires and the ground. This is the so-called differential process.

My old Toyota came with an open differential, and last winter on a snowy slope, after the left front wheel started spinning, the right front wheel completely stopped moving, leaving the car completely stuck. I floored the accelerator, only to hear the noise of the wheels spinning uselessly—all the power was wasted on the slipping wheel, and the car didn't budge an inch. In the end, I had to call a tow truck, which cost me 700 bucks. Afterward, I did some research and learned that open differentials are designed to allow wheels to rotate at different speeds during turns, but on snow, mud, or slippery surfaces, they send all the power to the spinning wheel, leaving the other wheel with good traction powerless, and the car can't move. It's even worse off-road—the slightest unevenness causes the car to get stuck. Nowadays, new cars come with limited-slip differentials or electronic systems that automatically adjust power distribution to avoid this issue. But my car hasn't been upgraded, so my only options are to avoid driving in bad weather or install traction-assist devices, which are a bit pricey. All in all, this drawback is incredibly annoying—it compromises safety and costs money.

I'm into car modifications, and the biggest flaw of standard differentials shows during racing. When accelerating out of a corner, if the inside wheel spins, the outside wheel loses power, drastically reducing overall thrust and costing lap time. On wet tracks, it's prone to losing control—one weak-grip wheel can pull the car off line. Standard diffs are cheap but underperform, far inferior to limited-slip differentials (LSDs) that lock both wheels for synchronized power. After installing a mechanical LSD, my cornering acceleration became noticeably quicker and more stable, with even power distribution eliminating the old wasted feeling. The differential’s original design was sound, but outdated tech reveals weaknesses under aggressive driving. Modern electronic systems simulate limited slip via braking, but with slower response. Without upgrades, a standard diff holds you back, especially at high speeds or on uneven surfaces, sapping confidence and raising risks. Mods cost money, but they’re worth it.

Having worked in car repair for ten years, a common issue with standard differentials is when one wheel slips while the other remains stationary, rendering the vehicle immobile. When driving uphill or on icy surfaces, power is entirely directed to the spinning wheel, leaving the good wheel idle. This stems from the differential gears defaulting to evenly distributing torque, which fails when friction is uneven. Oil leaks or wear further exacerbate the problem, necessitating regular checks of oil seals and fluid changes. Repair costs are not high, but the drawbacks are significant, making it unreliable. It is recommended that owners upgrade to a limited-slip differential or add electronic assistance systems. In summary, the design is simple and cost-effective, but it poses many daily driving hazards and is prone to jamming, causing delays.


