
electric tailgate failure can be caused by issues with the electric tailgate button, remote key button/chip failure, activation of the anti-pinch function when closing the tailgate, or lock mechanism failure. Electric tailgate button failure: When the vehicle is unlocked, if the electric tailgate button malfunctions, it sends incorrect signals to the control module. The solution is to open the tailgate for inspection and repair the button if necessary. Remote key button/chip failure: If the tailgate does not open automatically when the key is placed outside the vehicle's sensing range, it usually indicates a problem with the remote key button or chip. The solution is to replace the components in the remote key and perform a computer re-matching service. Activation of anti-pinch function when closing the tailgate: If the tailgate automatically opens during closing, it is usually due to foreign objects or insufficient lubrication causing increased resistance, which triggers the anti-pinch function. The solution is to apply lubricant. Lock mechanism failure: If the tailgate automatically opens without being properly locked, it generally indicates a lock mechanism failure. The solution is to replace the lock mechanism.

















The electric tailgate on my Mercedes had an issue recently, and it took a long time to figure out the cause. The most common problem is wiring faults—frequent opening and closing of the trunk can wear or break the wires, especially in winter when the rubber seals harden and are more likely to crush the wiring. Another issue is sensor failure; if the sensors on the rear bumper get dirty or blocked, they stop working. Last time, a patch of mud stuck to my car’s rear caused the tailgate to fail to open. There’s also the problem of aging hydraulic struts—after four or five years, the oil seals may leak, making it impossible to lift the tailgate. Short circuits in the control module are another risk; high-pressure water jets during car washes can seep into the seals and fry the chips. Lastly, don’t overlook voltage instability—once, I forgot to turn off my dashcam, and the drained so much that even the tailgate wouldn’t open. If you notice a fault, address it promptly. Don’t force the button, or you might burn out the motor.

During vehicle repairs, we've encountered numerous cases of electric tailgate malfunctions. Motor failure is one of the primary issues, where gear wear or water ingress causing rust can lead to rotation jamming. Control circuit short circuits are also common, particularly when the wiring harness on the left side of the trunk gets deformed by tool compression. Sensor anomalies can be divided into two types: ultrasonic sensors covered by ice/snow may misjudge obstacles, while oxidized limit switches cause position sensing deviations. There are also software faults - failed infotainment system updates may cause tailgate program errors. I recall one case where aftermarket tow hitch installation interfered with the electronic control system. For repairs, it's recommended to first check the 20A fuse in the fuse box, then use a diagnostic tool to read fault codes - this approach saves both time and money compared to disassembling components blindly.

My GLC's power tailgate completely failed last winter. The 4S dealership inspection revealed that the sensor was corroded by de-icing salt, with all metal contacts rusted through. The technician said the de-icing agents used in northern winters are particularly damaging to vehicles, recommending washing the undercarriage after each snowfall. Insufficient hinge lubrication was also critical—my car went three years without track maintenance, causing dried-up grease that triggered motor overload protection. Fishing gear boxes haphazardly placed in the trunk crushed wiring harness connectors, breaking plastic clips. Later, we discovered dents in the kick sensor area, likely from a parking lot collision. Repairs cost nearly 8,000 yuan. Now I use WD-40 monthly for track maintenance. I recommend installing tailgate impact strips to protect the bottom sensor area.

With a decade of research in automotive electronic systems, electric tailgate failures are often caused by system conflicts. For instance, after installing electric running boards, CAN bus signal overload can lead to unintended tailgate activation. Battery management module failures are also common, where the system proactively cuts off tailgate power during voltage fluctuations. On the software side, algorithm flaws in gesture control modules may cause repeated tailgate opening/closing. Physically, hatchbacks' poor rear door sealing often leads to water ingress during car washes, frequently burning out control units. Hydraulic strut oil leaks become most apparent during sudden temperature changes, with seals prone to cracking when temperature differences exceed 30°C. For those with mechanical skills, removing interior trim panels to first check for loose green connectors, then verifying motor resistance values fall within the normal 15-20 ohm range is recommended.

A colleague's EQC electric tailgate was making abnormal noises, and the investigation revealed it was due to a design flaw. Rainwater flowing down the rear windshield drips directly onto the motor bracket, causing corrosion of the aluminum bracket and resulting in resonance noise. Models with air suspension need extra attention, as when the suspension leaks air, the vehicle tilts backward, causing the tailgate to jam against the sealing strip. Wiring aging is a common issue in vehicles over five years old, as the wires inside the rubber bellows cannot withstand repeated bending. Some owners also overlook loose hinge bolts, and vibrations on bumpy roads cause the gaps to widen. An emergency solution is to press the unlock button on the key three times to force a system reset. Reminder: Avoid manually assisting when opening or closing the tailgate, as misjudgment of force by the torque sensor can lead to program confusion.


