
Currently, there are three mainstream methods for replacing transmission fluid: 1. Similar to changing engine oil, by loosening the transmission drain plug to drain and refill the fluid. 2. Directly removing the oil pan for draining and refilling. 3. The more advanced method using a circulation machine for automatic transmission fluid replacement. Here are the relevant instructions for the replacement methods: 1. If the old fluid has a burnt smell or metal fragments, the transmission needs inspection. 2. Simply loosening the drain plug allows the transmission fluid to flow out by gravity, revealing that the drained fluid has essentially turned completely black.

My last visit to the 4S shop for a transmission fluid change left quite an impression. The mechanic first lifted the car to inspect the oil pan underneath - the drain port locations vary significantly across different models. During draining, they carefully observed the fluid's color and contaminants; my car with 60,000 km had completely blackened fluid. There are two mainstream replacement methods: gravity drainage (simpler and cheaper but incomplete) versus flush machine replacement (requiring 12L fresh fluid but thoroughly cleaning old residue). I opted for the machine flush - watching the pale pink new fluid being gradually pumped in was oddly satisfying. Post-replacement, gear shifts became noticeably smoother. Remember to check your maintenance manual for recommended intervals - CVT and dual-clutch transmissions have different requirements.

I've witnessed the entire transmission fluid replacement process at an auto repair shop. First, you need to identify the transmission type - AT transmissions require specialized fluid exchange equipment, while manual transmissions are simpler. The procedure involves several steps: after warming up the vehicle and lifting it, start by removing the oil pan drain plug to release old fluid while cleaning metal debris. The critical part is refilling - use a funnel to pour new fluid through the inspection port in the engine compartment until it starts overflowing from the vent hole. Then start the engine and briefly engage each gear position to circulate the fluid. Special caution: never mix different fluid brands - I've seen cases of transmission slippage caused by mixing. Finally, have the technician reset the transmission adaptive values to maximize the new fluid's performance.

Changing transmission fluid is actually quite particular. Last time I did it myself for a manual transmission, it was more troublesome than expected. You need to prepare an oil drain pan, torque wrench, and fluid filler. The key is locating the exact fill port position - on some models it's near the drive shaft. The transmission must be warmed up to about 60°C before changing, as cold measurements aren't accurate. When refilling, squeeze slowly and start the engine to cycle through gears when fluid nearly overflows. For automatics, professional equipment is strongly recommended - using just a household jack is too dangerous. From my experience, fluid quality should be checked every 50,000 km, and immediate replacement is necessary if you detect burnt smell or emulsification.


