
Tire patching should be sanded until the tread is flat. Below are the specific details about automotive tire patching: 1. Inserting a rubber strip: Drill a hole approximately 6mm in diameter, then insert a rubber strip coated with adhesive into the hole. This method is only for emergency use and not suitable for long-term application, as it is prone to air leakage. 2. Patch repair: This method offers relatively stable and reliable performance and must be performed at a professional tire repair shop. 3. Hot patching: This involves heating on the basis of patch repair and is generally used for large trucks. 4. Mushroom nail repair: Under normal circumstances, using a mushroom nail for tire patching provides the best air tightness and repair effect, along with the strongest durability.

As an experienced auto repair technician with over a decade of tire patching expertise, I know tire buffing requires precision. Typically, we use an angle grinder or handheld buffing tool to lightly pass over the punctured area until achieving a uniform rough texture resembling fine sandpaper. Maintain a depth of about 0.5mm - never grind too deep to avoid damaging the inner cord layers, which compromises tire strength and driving safety. I prefer tactile inspection: if no smooth residue remains after wiping and dust blowing, it's ready. Tire type matters too - performance tires have thinner treads requiring extra caution. Insufficient buffing leads to poor patch adhesion, so beginners can use light reflection checks: stop when no glossy spots remain. Regular maintenance prevents such issues.

As a DIY enthusiast, I know that sanding is a crucial step when patching a tire. I use specialized sanding tools like sandpaper or small electric grinding heads to gently scratch around the puncture area. The goal is to create a rough surface, similar to frosted glass, without applying too much force to avoid damaging the tire material. Usually, a few seconds of sanding is enough—just check that the surface feels rough but without deep grooves or cracks. A trick I've learned is to lightly scrape with a fingernail; it should offer some resistance but not dig in too deep. It's also essential to clean off any dust, or the adhesive won't stick properly. Different patching methods, like hot patches or cold patches, have varying requirements, but the principle remains the same: increasing the bonding surface. If the tire is in good condition, sanding a smaller area is safer.

I've been driving for over 20 years and safety always comes first. When patching a tire, the grinding process must not be taken lightly, otherwise the tire could be damaged. I've consulted auto repair experts, and they said to grind until the punctured area's surface becomes completely matte with no shine left. The depth should not exceed 0.5mm - stop when you can feel roughness by touch. Protecting the cord layer is crucial; grinding too deep increases blowout risks. Regular maintenance includes frequent tire pressure checks to reduce puncture chances. When unsure about the grinding degree, directly seek professional shops for reliable and worry-free service.


