
Due to lack of lubricating oil or deterioration of lubricating oil causing noise, oil should be added or the oil quality should be checked and replaced if necessary. There is abnormal noise in neutral gear. Noise after pressing the clutch pedal indicates wear of the front and rear bearings of the transmission shaft. If noise occurs in any gear, it indicates severe looseness of the rear bearing of the second shaft.

The transmission noise issue with the Trumpchi GS4 requires detailed analysis. Common scenarios include: squeaking when depressing the clutch in neutral likely indicates a faulty release bearing, requiring transmission removal for replacement; metallic clunking during low-speed gear shifts suggests inspecting the dual-mass flywheel first - broken damping springs cause this hammering sound; whining during acceleration usually points to worn driveshaft bearings or differential gears, which can be checked by shaking the driveshaft underneath to assess play. A special case involves rattling noises during cold winter starts, often caused by insufficient valve body pressure leading to partial clutch engagement - switching to low-temperature fluidity transmission oil solves this. If you hear sounds resembling metal debris churning, immediately stop and check the drained oil - metal shavings in the pan necessitate major overhaul. Remember to change transmission fluid every 40,000 km during routine , and don't believe those 'maintenance-free' claims.

Five years of running an auto repair shop taught me that most GS4's abnormal noises come from mechanical parts. First, crawl under the car and inspect the driveshaft universal joint with a flashlight—if you spot rust stains or oil leaks, replacing the entire assembly is the permanent fix. Whistling sounds often indicate deteriorated transmission fluid; hook up a pressure gauge and change the fluid if readings drop below 2.5Bar. Sticking solenoid valves cause rhythmic clicking during gear shifts—cleaning the valve body may offer temporary relief, but full replacement is recommended beyond 80,000km. Pay special attention to engine mounts: collapsed ones let the transmission get pulled out of alignment by the engine, creating squeaks during acceleration. Last month I fixed one with this exact issue—an $80 mount replacement beats tearing down the transmission any day.

Here's my experience dealing with the clicking noise in the GS4 for your reference. This model has a common design flaw: the clutch fork shaft bushing is prone to wear-through. If you lift the dust cover, you can see excessive play in the fork - if lateral movement exceeds 3mm, replacement is mandatory. Worn fork causes metallic clunking during partial clutch engagement and eventually damages the release bearing. To save costs, you can just replace the fork kit (parts cost around 300 RMB but labor takes 6 hours). Another hidden issue is the shift cable rubber bushing - when aged, it causes clunky gear changes. You can reach up to feel the spherical joint on top of the transmission; if loose, WD-40 provides temporary relief.

Don't panic when encountering rattling noises from the transmission. First, determine whether the noise is continuous or occurs during gear shifts: continuous noise suggests bearing issues—if the noise disappears when shifting to neutral and depressing the clutch, the input shaft bearing is likely faulty. A clicking sound during gear shifts indicates synchronizer problems. Experience shows that the 1.5T-equipped dry dual-clutch transmission requires attention to heat dissipation, especially during frequent gear shifts in summer traffic jams, which can cause overheating and noise. Switching to manual mode and downshifting can help alleviate this. For hydraulic clutch models, check the clutch master cylinder—oil leaks can cause stiff shifting accompanied by air release sounds. Finally, a reminder for those with modified ECU programs: excessive torque can lead to flywheel noise.

Experience as a female owner tortured by the GS4 transmission: The rattling sound was like hitting sheet metal. The auto repair shop said it might be unstable valve body oil pressure, and it improved a lot after installing a transmission oil cooler. Another time there was a gurgling sound when accelerating, and the mechanic suggested replacing the clutch three-piece set, but upon disassembly, it turned out the flywheel buffer spring was cracked. Here's a way to save on inspection fees: When the car is cold, shift to D gear and hold the brake; if the humming sound gets louder, it's a torque converter issue. If you're doing it yourself, check the transmission oil level monthly—if there's a lot of foam on the dipstick, it means water has entered and you should change the oil immediately. Don't fall for the roadside shop's trick of quoting 30,000 for a whole transmission replacement; a professional transmission repair shop can save you half.


