
Generally, start with internal circulation to allow the entire car to reach the target temperature, typically taking about half an hour. After half an hour, switch to external circulation to ventilate and keep fresh air flowing into the car. When driving on highways, the oxygen level inside the car is crucial. If internal circulation is left on continuously, the oxygen level will gradually decrease, leading to dizziness, chest tightness, drowsiness, and potentially causing accidents. Below is additional information: Internal Circulation: This refers to the recirculation of air already inside the car. It is useful when the outside air quality is poor, such as during dusty or smoggy conditions, as it blocks polluted air from entering. For rapid cooling or heating, using internal circulation alone is effective, as it prevents outside air from affecting the temperature. External Circulation: External circulation draws in air from outside the car, processes it, and then blows it into the cabin. This method has the advantage of constantly refreshing the air, replacing stale interior air with fresh outside air. If the car windows fog up, using external circulation can quickly clear the fog.

In winter driving, the use of air conditioning should be handled flexibly depending on the situation. At the beginning when the car is cold, I directly use the internal circulation to warm it up quickly, as circulating the interior air heats up faster, saving waiting time. Once the car is sufficiently warm, I switch to external circulation to introduce fresh outside air, which reduces the risk of window fogging—external air has lower humidity and better moisture absorption, greatly aiding driving safety. If only internal circulation is used continuously, moisture can accumulate, leading to fog that obstructs vision, especially on rainy or snowy days. Additionally, in busy urban areas or during traffic jams, to avoid inhaling exhaust fumes, I temporarily use internal circulation. Alternating between these modes is the most practical approach, ensuring warmth without compromising safety.

As someone who prioritizes safe driving, I remind everyone not to neglect switching between recirculation and fresh air modes in winter. First, start the car and immediately turn on recirculation to quickly warm up, saving fuel with excellent heating efficiency. But while driving, pay attention to preventing fogging issues: recirculation may cause windows to blur, so I usually switch to fresh air mode once the car temperature stabilizes, introducing dry cold air to dehumidify. Especially during highway driving or in heavy fog, fresh air mode shows clear advantages; but in industrial areas or places with heavy exhaust, switch back to recirculation to protect health. Regularly checking the cabin air filter is also important, as winter dust can easily clog it and affect efficiency. In short, adjusting modes based on road conditions is the safest approach.

I believe health comes first, and in winter, using the air conditioning requires a balance with ventilation. When I start driving in the morning, I set it to recirculation mode to speed up heating, which is useful when in a hurry. Once it's warm, I switch to fresh air mode to bring in fresh air and avoid dizziness from CO2 buildup, which is especially crucial on long trips. However, in poor weather like snow or wind, I turn off the fresh air mode to prevent inhaling dust and pollution. Simply put, flexible switching is best: recirculation before warming up, fresh air after, ensuring both safety and hygiene.

I adjust based on my driving experience. On cold winter mornings, I start the car with the AC set to prioritize recirculation mode for faster heating—no delays. Once the car warms up, I switch to fresh air mode to prevent fogging—dry air entering the car is better for windshield defogging, especially on rural roads or when traffic is light. However, in urban traffic jams or tunnels, I temporarily use recirculation mode to reduce inhaling exhaust fumes and noise, making it safer and more worry-free. Regularly cleaning the air ducts is also worthwhile—don’t let issues pile up. A small tip: Switch modes every half hour to maintain balance.

From a fuel-saving perspective, I tend to use the recirculation mode more in winter to conserve energy, as it circulates the already warmed air to reduce AC load. This is particularly cost-effective for frequent-stop city driving, and it stabilizes cabin temperature quickly. However, I'm aware that prolonged use can cause issues like window fogging or air stagnation, so I've set a timer for automatic switching: for instance, switching to fresh air mode for a few minutes after 30 minutes of recirculation. Especially when outdoor air quality is good, using fresh air mode more benefits both breathing and environmental protection. This practice is both economical and practical.


