···
Log in / Register

Should the AC Button Be Turned On When Using the Car's Heater in Winter?

5 Answers
LauraRose
07/28/25 10:42pm

When using the car's heater in winter, there is no need to turn on the AC button. The warm air from the car's heater comes from the heat generated by the engine during operation, which is essentially a form of waste heat recycling. The working principle of the car's heater is as follows: after the engine's cooling system dissipates heat from the engine, the dissipated heat is blown into the car's interior by a fan to produce warm air. The method to turn on the car's heater in winter is to rotate the knob to the heating direction and turn on the fan switch to release warm air. The functions of the car's air conditioning system are: 1. To adjust and control the temperature, humidity, air cleanliness, and airflow inside the car cabin to an optimal state; 2. To provide a comfortable riding environment for passengers and reduce travel fatigue.

Was this review help?
8
5
Share
OwenDella
08/12/25 2:06am

As a veteran driver with over a decade of experience, I initially thought pressing the AC button was necessary for winter heating, but later realized it's completely unnecessary. The car's AC button activates the compressor, while the heating actually utilizes waste heat from engine operation, much like residual warmth from a furnace. When the coolant temperature gauge reaches the midpoint, simply turn off the AC button and adjust the fan speed knob—warm air will naturally flow through the vents. Engaging the AC at this point would only waste fuel by needlessly running the compressor and placing extra load on the engine. However, there's one exception: when the windshield fogs up, using the heater alone is slow for defogging. Briefly activating AC with the heater for 2-3 minutes enables faster dehumidification to clear fog, after which the AC should be turned off. Additionally, for prolonged heater use, switching to external air circulation every half hour is recommended to prevent CO₂ buildup and drowsiness.

Was this review help?
4
5
Share
Expand All
LeJude
10/01/25 4:28am

I remember when I picked up my new car, the salesperson specifically reminded me about the winter air conditioning usage. In winter, you don’t need to press the AC button at all when turning on the heater, unless you want to defog the windows. The principle is simple: car heating relies on the temperature of the engine coolant, just like a boiler heating water naturally; but the AC switch controls the air conditioning compressor. Normally, we turn off the AC, wait for the coolant temperature to rise, and then simply turn the temperature knob to the red zone. If you accidentally press the AC, the indicator light on the dashboard will turn on, and fuel consumption will increase by about 0.5 liters, like giving money to the gas station for free. When defogging, you do need to turn on the AC along with the heater, because the cold air can quickly absorb the moisture on the glass. I’ve found that it’s best not to rush to turn on the heater right after starting the car; wait until the coolant temperature gauge starts moving, otherwise you’ll just get cold air blowing out.

Was this review help?
2
5
Share
Expand All
OAngela
11/14/25 6:16am

As a car owner who treats my vehicle as a companion and focuses on maintenance, I pay special attention to the proper use of the air conditioning in winter. When turning on the heater, don’t press the AC button! This not only wastes fuel by making the compressor run idle but may also lead to insufficient lubrication of the refrigerant oil inside. Remember, the heater utilizes waste heat from the engine, similar to how a home radiator works. It’s recommended to wait until the coolant temperature gauge reaches around 90°C before adjusting the fan speed, and setting the temperature above 22°C is most comfortable. The only time to use AC is when the windshield is frosted or fogged up—turning on AC for dehumidification works twice as fast as using the heater alone, but remember to turn it off afterward. Additionally, regularly replacing the cabin air filter is crucial; otherwise, the heater will blow dust into the car, which is bad for the respiratory system. Lastly, a reminder: never sleep in the car with the heater on, as carbon monoxide can accumulate easily.

Was this review help?
20
5
Share
Expand All
VonKarter
01/04/26 7:57am

The operation is actually super simple: turn off the AC, wait for the coolant temperature to rise, and adjust the fan speed. I usually wait for the temperature gauge to reach the one-quarter mark—about 3 minutes after starting the car—then turn the temperature knob to the red high-temperature zone and press the fan speed button directly. There’s no need to touch the AC button at all because it only controls the refrigeration compressor, while the heat for warm air comes from the engine cooling system. To adjust the temperature, simply turn the knob, or press the temperature +/- buttons for automatic climate control. The only exception is when encountering sudden fog—press the MAX defrost button first (most cars will activate the AC), and turn off the AC immediately after the fog clears. Don’t keep the recirculation mode on for too long; switching to fresh air mode after half an hour is the safest. Remember the three basic steps for using the heater in winter: wait for the coolant temperature to rise, turn off the AC, and adjust the fan speed.

Was this review help?
20
0
Share
Expand All
More Forum Discussions

What Causes Frost or Water Droplets on the Low-Pressure Pipe of a Car's Air Conditioning System?

Introduction to the causes of frost or water droplets on the low-pressure pipe of a car's air conditioning system: 1. Normal Frosting: When the air conditioner starts running, both the condensation temperature and pressure are relatively low, causing the capillary tube's refrigerant supply to be below the normal level, which in turn lowers the evaporation pressure. This leads to frost formation on the low-pressure supply pipe. However, this frosting and melting process is temporary, usually beginning shortly after the compressor starts. The entire process typically concludes within 5 minutes, after which the air conditioner operates normally. 2. Clogged Refrigeration System Preventing Normal Refrigerant Circulation: If there is a restriction in the connecting pipes, inspect the pipeline for blockages or bends. If found, this indicates a flow restriction, and replacing the pipe may be necessary. Regular car maintenance is beneficial for the proper functioning of the air conditioning system. 3. Clogged Air Conditioning Filter: Blockages often occur at the filter outlet or capillary tube inlet. A partial blockage creates a throttling effect, reducing the pressure below the normal operating level and causing frost on the supply pipe. 4. Refrigerant Leakage Leading to Insufficient Refrigerant: A lack of refrigerant can cause frost on the low-pressure supply pipe, which is a typical malfunction. This is evident when frost appears as soon as the air conditioner starts and persists even after the compressor has run for over 10 minutes. For older air conditioners, this may be normal and can be resolved by adding refrigerant. However, if this occurs in units that are only a few years old or newly installed, it likely indicates a refrigerant system leak. 5. Clogged Refrigeration System Preventing Normal Refrigerant Circulation: If there is a restriction in the connecting pipes, inspect the pipeline for blockages or bends. If found, this indicates a flow restriction, and replacing the pipe may be necessary. Regular car maintenance is beneficial for the proper functioning of the air conditioning system. 6. Clogged Air Conditioning Filter: Blockages often occur at the filter outlet or capillary tube inlet. A partial blockage creates a throttling effect, reducing the pressure below the normal operating level and causing frost on the supply pipe. 7. Refrigerant Leakage Leading to Insufficient Refrigerant: A lack of refrigerant can cause frost on the low-pressure supply pipe, which is a typical malfunction. This is evident when frost appears as soon as the air conditioner starts and persists even after the compressor has run for over 10 minutes. For older air conditioners, this may be normal and can be resolved by adding refrigerant. However, if this occurs in units that are only a few years old or newly installed, it likely indicates a refrigerant system leak.
7
2
Share

Reasons for the Engine Warning Light in Qoros 5

The engine warning light in Qoros 5 may illuminate due to the following 7 main reasons: Sensor malfunction: This includes sensors such as coolant temperature, crankshaft position, air flow, intake temperature, and oxygen sensors. When these sensors are damaged, have poor contact, or experience signal interruption, the vehicle's ECU cannot accurately obtain engine data, triggering the engine warning light. Fuel/oil quality issues: Failure to use the fuel and engine oil as specified by the manufacturer may cause engine wear, leading to the warning light activation. Poor combustion of air-fuel mixture: Poor combustion can result in engine carbon buildup or knocking. When detected by the oxygen sensor and reported to the ECU, the warning light will illuminate as a caution. Issues like spark plug failure, ignition coil malfunction, fuel pump failure, or fuel line blockage can all cause poor combustion. Turbocharging problems: Intake turbocharging pipelines or turbocharger issues can also trigger the engine warning light. The most common issue is turbocharger damage, often accompanied by symptoms such as oil leaks, excessive oil consumption, reduced power, metallic noises, or blue/black smoke from the exhaust. Intake problems: If the vehicle's intake system malfunctions, it may lead to engine pipeline blockages, and in severe cases, trigger the engine warning light. A dirty air filter that hasn't been cleaned regularly can cause intake issues. Exhaust problems: Exhaust system faults can also activate the engine warning light. Common causes include rear oxygen sensor failure, three-way catalytic converter issues, exhaust camshaft and bearing failures. The three-way catalytic converter is most frequently affected. Using leaded gasoline, lead/silicon-based lubricant additives, physical damage to the catalytic converter, or fuel system malfunctions can all contribute to catalytic converter failure. Anti-theft system malfunction: If the electronic anti-theft system fails or there's a mismatch between the anti-theft controller and engine ECU, the anti-theft system may prevent normal engine operation while illuminating the warning light. When the engine warning light illuminates, follow these steps: First, check if the engine is running normally. Look for symptoms like shaking or black smoke emission. If present, avoid restarting the engine. Note: Never restart if the red warning light is on. If the engine can be started, turn it off and wait 5-10 minutes. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the start button once or turn the key halfway to the ON position (without depressing the clutch). The vehicle will initiate self-diagnosis upon power-on. After 5-10 seconds, observe whether the warning light turns off. If the light remains on, visit a service center promptly. Technicians can use portable diagnostic tools to read fault codes, identify issues, and perform targeted repairs.
4
2
Share

Toyota Sienna Engine Model?

Toyota Sienna's engine is produced by GAC Toyota Engine Factory and is a domestically manufactured engine. The engine model for the Toyota Sienna 3.5L version is 2GRFSE, with a maximum torque of 332Nm and a maximum horsepower of 269. The 2.7L version's engine model is 2GRFKS, with a maximum torque of 253Nm and a maximum horsepower of 190. The 3.3L version's engine model is 3MZFE, with a maximum power of 405KW, a maximum torque of 242Nm, and a maximum horsepower of 230. For daily maintenance of the Toyota Sienna's engine, the following methods can be used: Use lubricating oil of appropriate quality grade. For gasoline engines, choose SD--SF grade gasoline engine oil based on the additional devices in the intake and exhaust systems and usage conditions; for diesel engines, choose CB--CD grade diesel engine oil according to the mechanical load, with the selection standard not lower than the manufacturer's requirements. Regularly change the oil and filter. The quality of any grade of lubricating oil will change during use. After a certain mileage, performance deteriorates, causing various problems for the engine. To avoid failures, change the oil regularly according to usage conditions and keep the oil level moderate. When oil passes through the fine holes of the filter, solid particles and viscous substances in the oil accumulate in the filter. If the filter is clogged and oil cannot pass through the filter element, the filter element may burst or the safety valve may open, allowing oil to bypass through the bypass valve and bring contaminants back to the lubrication area, accelerating engine wear and increasing internal pollution. Regularly clean the crankcase. During engine operation, high-pressure unburned gases, acids, moisture, sulfur, and nitrogen oxides from the combustion chamber enter the crankcase through the gap between the piston rings and cylinder walls, mixing with metal powder from part wear to form sludge. A small amount remains suspended in the oil, while a large amount precipitates, clogging the filter and oil holes, making engine lubrication difficult and causing wear. Regularly use radiator cleaner to clean the radiator. Removing rust and scale not only ensures the engine's normal operation but also extends the overall lifespan of the radiator and engine.
2
2
Share

How to Open the Door with a GLC Mechanical Key?

The owner presses the button on the side of the car remote key to remove the mechanical key. Under the door handle on the driver's side, there is a small hole where the key can be inserted. Lift the car key upward to remove the cover on the door handle, revealing the hidden mechanical keyhole. Insert the mechanical key into the keyhole and turn it counterclockwise to unlock and open the door.
8
1
Share

How to Deal with Malibu XL Display Black Screen on Highway?

Promptly check whether there is a loose connection in the wiring. If present, it can naturally cause the central control screen to black out. In this case, simply reconnect the loose part. It could also be due to aging of the power signal cable. Try replacing it with a new one to see if the black screen issue is resolved. A faulty power supply module not only causes lag but may also lead to a black screen in severe cases. Another possible reason could be defects in the circuit design.
19
5
Share

How to Use a Car Window Breaker?

First, take out the safety hammer from the car, then directly strike the four corners of the tempered glass. Avoid hitting the center initially. When slight cracking appears, it indicates that the stress distribution inside the glass has been significantly disrupted, causing numerous cracks to form instantly. If the glass has a film, you need to exert force to kick it open, as the film has anti-shatter properties and won't detach without sufficient external force. Once the glass has loosened sufficiently, passengers can promptly and orderly exit through the window and move to a relatively safe location.
6
3
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.