
There are several possible reasons why the window glass of this vehicle cannot be lowered, including a damaged window regulator or a broken lifting bracket. Below is an introduction to car windows: 1. Car Windows: Car windows are an essential part of the entire vehicle body, designed to meet the needs of interior lighting, ventilation, and visibility for drivers and passengers. Depending on the installation position of the glass, car windows can be categorized into: front and rear windshields, side windows, and door windows. The design, structure, and quality of car windows significantly impact the driver's visibility, passenger comfort, aesthetic appearance, and aerodynamic characteristics. Car window structures are typically curved and sealed, with rubber sealing strips connecting the window frame and the glass. These sealing strips provide both sealing and cushioning effects to prevent damage to the windshield when the window frame deforms due to stress on the vehicle body. 2. Front and Rear Windshields: The front and rear windshields of a car usually use curved glass that enhances visibility and aesthetics. In sedans, the front and rear windshields are also referred to as front and rear windshield glass. 3. Ventilation Windows: To facilitate natural ventilation, some vehicles are equipped with triangular ventilation windows on the doors. These triangular ventilation windows can rotate around a vertical axis, with the front part turning inward and the rear part turning outward, creating a vortex of air that circulates around the window. 4. Heat-Insulated Side Windows: Side windows often use tinted glass or have a heat-insulating layer to maintain interior warmth and provide a quiet, comfortable feeling. High-end buses with advanced air conditioning, heating, ventilation, and climate control systems often feature non-opening side windows to enhance the vehicle's sealing.

This issue is really annoying. My seventh-generation Accord had the same problem before. When three windows stop working simultaneously, it's most likely due to a malfunction in the master control switch. The switch assembly near your left elbow in the driver's seat is the most prone to failure. Also, check the corresponding fuses in the fuse box, especially the 15-amp one—older cars have a high fuse blowout rate. Another common culprit is the door wiring harness; in older cars, the wires passing through the door panel can easily fray and short-circuit, especially during rainy weather. Lastly, don’t forget to inspect the window lift motors, though the chance of all three failing at once is slim. Focus on troubleshooting the electrical issues mentioned earlier. Stuck windows not only affect ventilation but also pose a serious safety risk in emergencies. It’s best to take the car to a reliable repair shop to address the wiring and electrical problems.

Buddy, your Accord is also suffering from the common issue! My seventh-gen had the same problem, and it turned out to be the window control module acting up. This thing is hidden inside the driver's side door panel and tends to go haywire over time—either completely losing power or mistakenly locking other windows. First, test the window movement: press the switch and listen for any motor buzzing sound inside the door panel. If there's no sound, it's likely a broken circuit or a dead relay. Another unconventional trick is the power reset method—disconnect the negative battery terminal for ten minutes, which can sometimes force a hard reboot of the system. If it still doesn't work, don't push it too hard. Old car electrical issues can be complicated, and the last thing you want is to make it worse by tinkering too much.

Encountered three windows failing simultaneously? The first reaction is to check the master switch assembly on the driver's side! The 7th-generation Accord has a particularly high failure rate in this part—over time, contact oxidation or spring fatigue can cause it to stop working outright. Next, inspect the fuse box near the driver's footwell, locate the fuse labeled "POWER," and pull it out for a look. If everything appears intact, suspect the wiring connectors inside the door panel—older cars' rubber seals degrade, allowing water ingress that corrodes the plugs. While not a critical failure, it severely impacts daily use, especially in summer without AC, turning the car into a sauna. A mechanic can diagnose it by dismantling the door panel in about 30 minutes. Parts are inexpensive, but labor costs can run a few hundred.


