
Vacuuming is not necessary when adding refrigerant to a car's air conditioning system. Freon is used as a refrigerant in the air conditioning system, and its purpose is to absorb heat through compression by the compressor to achieve cooling. The method for adding Freon to a car is as follows: 1. Connect the manifold pressure gauge to the compressor and the refrigerant tank; 2. Open the refrigerant tank, loosen the nut on the middle injection hose, and after hearing the sound of refrigerant vapor flowing, tighten the nut to expel air from the hose; 3. Open the low-pressure manual valve to allow refrigerant to enter the cooling system, and close the manual valve when the pressure reaches 0.4 MPa; 4. Start the engine and turn on the air conditioning, set the fan speed and temperature to high, open the manual valve on the manifold pressure gauge, and allow the refrigerant to continue entering the cooling system until it reaches the specified value of 1.37 to 1.67 MPa.

Having worked in auto repair shops for many years, I always emphasize to apprentices that vacuuming is absolutely necessary before adding refrigerant. Skipping this step means residual air and moisture in the AC system will drastically reduce cooling efficiency. Moisture can also freeze in the pipes, causing blockages, and worse, lead to refrigerant degradation and compressor corrosion. The proper procedure is to connect a vacuum pump and continuously evacuate for about half an hour until the pressure gauge stabilizes at -30 inches of mercury. This step also incidentally checks for leaks in the system. If you skip this step to save time, the AC will soon have issues again, and the repair rate will skyrocket. That's why professional repairs treat this as an ironclad rule.

As an experienced driver, I learned my lesson the hard way. Last time when repairing the air conditioning, I skipped the vacuuming process to save time and directly added refrigerant. The result? The AC stopped cooling after just one week. The mechanic explained that the trapped air expanded when heated, causing abnormal refrigerant pressure, and they also found water accumulation in the dryer bottle that corroded the pipe joints. Now I understand - vacuuming is the crucial step to remove moisture and air contaminants, just like not venting a pressure cooker when making soup. The system must be in a vacuum state to prevent refrigerant leakage or the formation of acidic substances that corrode components. I recommend car owners supervise the repair process and only trust mechanics who bring out vacuum pumps.

The first lesson when learning auto repair from a master is the importance of evacuating the air conditioning system. Even the slightest moisture in the system can freeze and block the capillary tube during refrigerant circulation, while air infiltration further reduces cooling efficiency. A vacuum pump must be used to thoroughly evacuate the system to ensure the purity of the subsequent Freon charge. During operation, pay attention to connecting both high and low-pressure lines. After evacuating for half an hour, close the valves and observe whether the pressure gauge stabilizes—if not, it indicates a leak. If this step isn't done properly, adding more refrigerant will be futile and may even cause abnormal wear to the compressor.

Having played with cars for over a decade and modified numerous air conditioning systems, I know that evacuating the system before adding refrigerant is basic knowledge. Poor thermal conductivity of air reduces heat exchange efficiency, and moisture can produce acids that corrode metal components. I usually use a vacuum pump to evacuate for twenty minutes to remove impurities, and the pressure must stabilize at 750 mmHg to be considered qualified. Especially for older cars with aging pipelines, extra caution is necessary—otherwise, residual moisture can cause the expansion valve to freeze and clog. This time investment cannot be skipped, as it ensures refrigerant purity; otherwise, even the best refrigerant will underperform.


