Is the Engine Not Working Due to the Computer Board?
3 Answers
The engine not working is not necessarily due to the computer board. Check the spark plugs and cylinder wires: Ensure the spark plug gap meets the original factory technical standards, and the resistance value of the cylinder wires also complies with technical requirements. Adjust or replace them if they do not meet the specifications. Perform a fuel pressure system inspection: Check the fuel pressure gauge and fuel pressure gauge assembly, connect the fuel pipe and gauge. Start the engine and let it idle. The fuel gauge reading should be within the range of 270-320 kPa. If the pressure exceeds the technical specifications, replace the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Inspect each cylinder's fuel injector: Let the engine idle, disconnect each fuel injector plug one by one, and observe if there is any change in idle speed. If disconnecting each injector results in a similar reduction in idle speed, the injectors are functioning normally. If disconnecting a particular injector does not affect the engine's idle speed or stability, measure the resistance of the injector plug. It should be between 10-13 ohms. Replace the injector if it does not meet the standard. Additionally, inspect the wiring between the PGM-FI main relay and the plug connection points, as well as any potential breaks or poor connections in the wiring between the plug connection points and the injectors. Fuel pump and fuel pump circuit inspection: For the fuel pump, remove the fuel tank cap and turn the ignition to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump operating at the fuel filler opening. Under normal conditions, the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when the ignition is turned ON. If the fuel pump does not operate, first check if the fuel pump fuse is blown. Also, verify the continuity between the PGM-FI main relay and the plug terminals, etc.
I've been driving for over a decade and have fixed many malfunctions. While engine failure could indeed be caused by the ECU (Engine Control Unit), it's rarely the main culprit. The ECU acts like the brain of the engine, controlling fuel injection and ignition – if it fails, the engine definitely won't start. But in reality, I've mostly encountered issues like dead batteries, seized starters, or failed fuel pumps. Last time, my neighbor's car had a faulty crankshaft position sensor, causing multiple dashboard warning lights since the ECU couldn't receive RPM signals. In such cases, don't rush to replace the ECU – first check the fuse box for blown fuses and measure if the battery voltage reaches 12V. If you suspect ECU issues, get professional diagnostics done first. Replacing it blindly could cost you thousands.
Having worked in the workshop repairing cars for so many years, engine failure to start is a very common issue. ECU (Engine Control Unit) malfunction is indeed one possibility, such as a burnt power module or program disorder. However, this usually comes with multiple warning lights turning on simultaneously, and the engine doesn't even make a cranking sound. More often, the problem lies in basic components: worn starter motor carbon brushes causing idle spinning, a clogged fuel pump filter preventing fuel supply, or a failed crankshaft position sensor causing the ECU to lose its reference. Last month, there was a car where the anti-theft system mistakenly triggered and locked the fuel supply—the computer showed normal but just wouldn't ignite. It's recommended to first use a diagnostic tool to read fault codes, measure fuel pressure, and check the power supply to the ignition coils. Don't jump straight to suspecting the ECU; many issues can be solved by just replacing a relay for a few tens of dollars.
