
BMW 5 Series does not require exclusive coolant. Any brand of coolant that matches the original factory quality and has the same composition can be used. Different brands of coolant have varying production formulas. If mixed, chemical reactions between multiple additives may occur, leading to additive failure. Composition of coolant: The main components of coolant are: 50% pure water, 40% methanol, and 10% other substances. Types of coolant: Coolants are generally divided into three types: ethanol-water type, glycerol-water type, and ethylene glycol-water type. How to choose coolant: The basic indicators of coolant are freezing point and boiling point. The market offers coolants with freezing points of -15°C, -25°C, -30°C, -40°C, etc. It is advisable to choose a coolant with a freezing point at least 10°C lower than the lowest temperature in your region.

Those who have driven old BMWs should understand. My third 5 Series is almost eight years old, and I've always used the original coolant. That blue bottle from BMW isn't just some myth—its high-temperature protection is far superior to regular coolants. Last year during maintenance, the mechanic tested it with a tester: the original coolant's boiling point was over 110°C, while the regular green coolant boiled at just 105°C—keep in mind the BMW B48 engine can reach 107°C. Plus, the blue liquid has a hidden benefit: leaks are extremely noticeable. Last time my radiator connection leaked, the blue traces on the ground were glaringly obvious, saving me time on diagnostics. I really don’t recommend mixing it with other colors—last year, a fellow owner in the group mixed in red coolant, which ended up clogging the cooling system and costing over 8,000 RMB to fix.

As a mechanic with ten years of experience in a repair shop, I've worked on hundreds of BMWs. The 5 Series must use specialized coolant, primarily due to its unique anti-corrosion formula. BMW's cooling systems have a high proportion of aluminum components, and the silicates in ordinary coolant can corrode the water pump housing. The factory blue fluid utilizes organic acid technology, forming a protective film on aluminum radiators. Just last week, a G38 model mixed with green coolant had its water pump impeller corroded and broken within just three months. When purchasing, look for the BMW LL-12 certification; compatible products like BASF G48 are also acceptable. Always top up with the same color and brand, as mixing can cause flocculent precipitates.

I recommend BMW owners to go directly for the genuine product. Although it's more expensive (198 yuan/L at 4S shops), it saves a lot of hassle. Last year, I bought a third-party blue coolant labeled 'suitable for BMW' on JD.com to save money, but the freezing point test only reached -30°C (the genuine product can go down to -40°C). I almost froze and cracked the radiator during a winter trip to Harbin. Also, pay attention to the replacement interval—BMW requires the first change at 4 years or 60,000 km, followed by every 2 years, which is more frequent than Japanese cars. When topping up, always do it when the engine is cold; opening the expansion tank cap on a hot engine can result in steam burns!


