···
Log in / Register

Is the BMW M4 or M5 better?

5Answers
DeJordan
06/05/2026, 02:39:27 PM

The BMW M5 is the better all-around performance car, offering vastly superior practicality and comfort while being nearly as fast as the M4 in most real-world conditions. The M4 Coupe is the purer driver's car, delivering a more engaging and focused experience on track or winding roads, but its rear seats and trunk are less usable. Your choice hinges on whether you prioritize daily versatility and luxury or maximum agility and sporting character.

Performance and Driving Dynamics The core difference lies in their body and drivetrain. The M4 is a lighter, two-door coupe (or convertible) with rear-wheel drive (RWD) or optional M xDrive all-wheel drive. The current G82 generation M4 Competition produces 503 horsepower. Its more compact size and weight translate to sharper turn-in and more communicative steering, making it feel more nimble and connected on a circuit. The M5, a four-door sedan, is heavier but uses a more powerful 4.4-liter V8 and standard M xDrive. The F90 generation M5 Competition outputs 617 horsepower. Its all-wheel-drive system provides astonishing traction, launching it from 0-60 mph in about 2.8 seconds, making it feel brutally fast in a straight line and in poor weather. While the M5 can be set to rear-wheel drive mode, its driving experience is more about immense, manageable power and stability than playful agility.

Practicality and Daily Usability This is the M5's decisive advantage. As a full-size executive sedan, it offers ample space for four adults, with genuinely comfortable rear seats and a large trunk. Its ride quality, even in its firmest setting, is more compliant than the M4's, making long journeys less fatiguing. The M4's rear seats are best for children or occasional use, and its trunk opening is compromised by the coupe design. If you regularly carry passengers or need a true daily driver that blends performance with luxury, the M5 is the clear and only logical choice.

Value and Market Position Pricing reflects their different roles. A new M5 Competition starts at a significantly higher point than an M4 Competition. However, the M5 offers a unique combination of supercar acceleration and limousine space that has no direct rival. The M4 competes more directly with cars like the Audi RS5 and Mercedes-AMG C63. For a dedicated weekend or track car, the M4 provides more thrill per dollar. For a singular vehicle that must do everything exceptionally, the M5 justifies its premium.

Comparison AspectBMW M4 CompetitionBMW M5 Competition
Body Style2-Door Coupe/Convertible4-Door Sedan
Engine3.0L Twin-Turbo Inline-64.4L Twin-Turbo V8
Horsepower503 hp617 hp
DrivetrainRWD or Optional M xDrive AWDStandard M xDrive AWD
0-60 mph~3.4 sec (with M xDrive)~2.8 sec
Primary FocusAgility, Driver Engagement, Track FocusUltimate Power, Daily Usability, All-Weather Capability
Was this review help?
100
Share
TimothyLee
06/06/2026, 12:13:57 AM

I’ve owned an M4 and now drive an M5. For my life, the M5 wins without question. The M4 was a blast on backroads, but I was constantly making excuses not to drive it—too harsh for the school run, no space for my kids’ sports gear, a pain to get in and out of in tight parking lots. The M5 looks like a serious business sedan, but it has that monster V8 under the hood. I get the same adrenaline rush, but with air-conditioned seats, a smooth ride on the highway, and a back seat my family doesn’t complain about. It’s the car that does it all without compromise, which the M4 simply can’t match for daily life.

Was this review help?
25
Share
Expand All
AllisonMarie
06/06/2026, 10:11:31 PM

You’re asking the wrong question if you think one is universally “better.” They’re tools for different jobs. Think about your actual use case. Are your driving roads tight, technical canyons or circuits? Do you crave the feeling of the rear wheels stepping out under power, requiring skill to manage? That’s the M4’s domain—it’s a scalpel. Its lighter front end and communication through the chassis are sublime. The M5 is a sledgehammer wrapped in velvet. Its job is to demolish straights, devour long distances in silence, and carry four people in climate-controlled comfort while hiding its immense performance. The M5 is objectively more capable in many metrics, but the M4 provides a more intense and rewarding driver-centric experience. Which tool do you need?

Was this review help?
17
Share
Expand All
DelCole
06/07/2026, 03:17:14 PM

Let’s cut through the specs. Most people cross-shopping these are considering a family. Here’s the reality: the M4 is not a family car. The back seat is cramped, and loading a child seat is a backache. The M5 is. It has proper doors, real space, and a usable trunk. The M4’s ride is firm and noisy; the M5, while still sporty, is far more refined on broken pavement. If you have a partner or kids, the M5 is the only responsible performance choice from BMW that doesn’t force you to own a second, practical car. The M4 is for singles, couples without children, or as a dedicated second car for fun.

Was this review help?
25
Share
Expand All
JosephineAnn
06/08/2026, 04:44:58 AM

Looking beyond the showroom, ownership costs and long-term feel differ. The M5’s twin-turbo V8 is a masterpiece but is more complex and costly to maintain than the M4’s inline-6. Tires for the M5 are larger and more expensive. Fuel economy is significantly lower. However, the M5’s interior materials, overall build quality, and sense of occasion feel a tier above the M4. It ages like a premium luxury car. The M4 feels more special when you’re driving hard, but in daily traffic, its interior can feel surprisingly similar to a standard 4-Series. Depreciation is a factor; the unique, high-cost performance of the M5 often makes it hold its value strongly within its niche. The M4 faces more direct competition, which can affect resale. Choose the M5 for a long-term, do-it-all keeper; the M4 for a more affordable, focused thrill.

Was this review help?
26
Share
Expand All
More Q&A

can you buy back a totaled car from insurance

Yes, you can often buy back a totaled car from your insurance company, a process known as "retaining the salvage." The insurer will pay you the car's actual cash value (ACV) minus your deductible and the car's estimated salvage value. You then receive a "salvage title" and are responsible for all repairs and the re-certification process required by your state to make the car road-legal again. This decision hinges on a careful cost-benefit analysis. The primary appeal is saving money, especially if the car has high sentimental value or the damage is primarily cosmetic. However, the challenges are significant. You must factor in the cost of parts, labor for repairs, and the extensive paperwork. The vehicle's resale value will be drastically reduced due to the salvage title, and securing full-coverage insurance afterward can be difficult or prohibitively expensive. The process varies by state but generally follows these steps: The insurance company declares the car a total loss and makes a settlement offer. You inform them you wish to retain the salvage. They deduct the car's salvage value (what a junkyard would pay for it) from your settlement. You receive the adjusted payment and the car, along with a salvage title. Before proceeding, you must have a realistic repair plan. Obtain quotes from trusted mechanics to ensure the repair costs don't exceed the savings from buying it back. Furthermore, research your state's specific regulations for rebuilding and inspecting a salvage vehicle to return it to a "rebuilt" title status. This often involves rigorous safety inspections by a state agency. Consideration Key Factor Note Financial Outcome Settlement Offer - Salvage Value You receive less cash but keep the car. Title Status Becomes a "Salvage Title" Permanently impacts vehicle history and value. Repair Cost Must be less than the savings Get professional repair estimates first. Future Insurance Difficult to get comprehensive/collision Most insurers only offer liability coverage. State Regulations Vary significantly; some states prohibit it for certain totals. Check with your local DMV. Ultimately, buying back a totaled car is a practical option only for those with mechanical skill, a clear financial advantage, or a strong personal attachment to the vehicle.
108
Share

can you charge a car battery with a jump pack

Yes, you can use a jump pack to start a car with a dead battery, but it is not designed to fully recharge it. A jump pack, or jump starter, provides a short, powerful burst of electricity—measured in cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA) —to crank the engine. Once the engine is running, the vehicle's alternator takes over to recharge the battery while you drive. Relying solely on a jump pack for a full recharge is ineffective and can damage the jump pack's internal lithium-ion battery, which is meant for brief, high-output discharges, not the slow, sustained output of a dedicated battery charger or trickle charger . For a battery to be properly and safely recharged, it needs a steady, low-amperage current over several hours. This process, known as trickle charging , allows the battery's lead-acid cells to recover without the risk of overcharging or excessive heat buildup, which can cause permanent damage. A jump pack simply cannot provide this controlled environment. If your car battery dies frequently, it's a sign of an aging battery, a faulty alternator that isn't charging it while driving, or a parasitic drain from an accessory that continues to draw power after the car is off. The best practice is to use the jump pack for its intended purpose—getting you started—and then drive the car for at least 30 minutes to allow the alternator to replenish the battery. For a deeply discharged battery, a proper battery charger is the only reliable solution. Scenario Recommended Tool Purpose Typical Duration Key Consideration Emergency Engine Start Jump Pack Provide instant high amps to crank engine 5-10 seconds Does not recharge the battery; for emergency use only. Recharging a Weak Battery Car's Alternator Replenish charge after a jump start 30+ minutes of driving Alternator health is critical; it charges the battery while driving. Full/Slow Recharge Dedicated Battery Charger Safely restore a dead or low battery 4-12 hours Prevents overcharging; essential for battery longevity. Long-Term Storage Trickle Charger Maintain charge over weeks/months Continuous Provides a low, constant charge to offset natural discharge. Testing Battery Health Multimeter Measure voltage to assess charge level Instant A reading below 12.4V indicates a need for charging.
110
Share

can turn car on without engine light blinking

Yes, it is completely normal and expected for a car to start without the check engine light blinking. When you turn the key to the "ON" position before cranking the engine, the check engine light, along with other warning lights, should illuminate for a few seconds. This is a bulb check to confirm the warning system is operational. Once you start the engine, all these lights, including the check engine light, should turn off. If the check engine light stays on or flashes after the engine is running, that indicates a problem. The light is officially known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Its behavior is your car's primary way of communicating issues from the onboard diagnostics system (OBD-II). A solid light means a non-critical fault has been detected, while a flashing light signals a severe problem, like a misfire that can damage the catalytic converter, requiring immediate attention. The normal sequence is crucial for diagnosing issues. If the light doesn't illuminate during the bulb check, that's actually a problem itself, as you can't trust the system. The most common reason for a no-start condition with no check engine light is often a simple electrical issue, like a dead battery or poor connection, which prevents the computer from powering up enough to run the self-test. Here is a table outlining common scenarios related to the check engine light and starting: Scenario Check Engine Light Behavior Likely Interpretation Normal Operation On during key-on, off after engine start Vehicle systems are normal. Minor Fault Detected On during key-on, remains solid after start A non-urgent fault code is stored (e.g., oxygen sensor). Schedule service. Severe Fault Detected On during key-on, flashes after start Critical issue (e.g., severe engine misfile). Reduce load and seek immediate repair. Car Won't Start, No Light Does not illuminate at all Possible battery failure, blown fuse, or faulty ECU/power supply issue. Car Won't Start, Light Stays On Illuminates but engine doesn't crank Potential issue with security system, transmission range sensor, or other engine management fault.
110
Share

can you buy a car with a permit in california

Yes, you can purchase a car with a learner's permit in California, but you cannot legally register or drive it without a valid driver's license. The act of buying a car—whether with cash or financing—does not require a license, as ownership is separate from driving privileges. However, the California Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) mandates a driver's license for vehicle registration, and auto insurers typically require one for coverage. Without registration and insurance, operating the vehicle on public roads is illegal, risking fines or impoundment. A learner's permit, or provisional instruction permit, allows driving only under supervision of a licensed driver aged 25 or older. While owning a car with a permit is possible, it's often impractical. For example, you might need a parent or guardian to co-sign registration documents until you obtain your license. Key considerations include understanding DMV rules and insurance requirements to avoid legal pitfalls. Here are essential data points from California DMV regulations and insurance standards: Requirement Details Minimum Age for Learner's Permit 15.5 years Permit Expiration Period 12 months Driver's License Required for Vehicle Registration Yes Minimum Liability Insurance Coverage $15,000 per person injury, $30,000 per accident injury, $5,000 property damage Supervised Driving Hours Needed for License 50 hours, including 10 nighttime hours If you proceed with a purchase, plan for temporary storage or supervised use. Always verify current laws with the DMV or a legal advisor to ensure compliance. Focus on securing your driver's license first to fully enjoy car ownership.
105
Share

can you check a car battery while its running

No, you should not check a car battery with a multimeter while the engine is running. This test does not measure the battery's health; instead, it measures the charging system's output, primarily the alternator . Attempting to check the battery itself this way is ineffective and can potentially damage your multimeter due to voltage spikes from the alternator. The only safe and accurate way to test the battery's condition is with the engine off. Why Testing a Running Car is for the Alternator When the engine is running, the alternator takes over the electrical load. Its job is to recharge the battery and power all the vehicle's systems. A healthy alternator typically produces a voltage between 13.7 and 14.7 volts . If you measure within this range at the battery terminals, your charging system is likely functioning correctly. A reading significantly higher could indicate an overcharging alternator, while a lower reading suggests it's failing to charge the battery. The Correct Way to Test the Battery To check the battery's actual state of charge and health, the engine must be off. Ideally, let the car sit for a few hours to get a "resting voltage." Resting Voltage Test: Connect your multimeter to the battery terminals. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts or higher . A reading of 12.4 volts indicates about a 75% charge, and 12.0 volts or less means the battery is effectively discharged. Load Test: For a true assessment of battery health, a load test is required. This applies a simulated electrical load to the battery and measures its ability to hold voltage. This is best performed by an auto parts store or a mechanic with professional equipment. The table below summarizes the key voltage readings and what they indicate: Test Condition Voltage Reading What It Indicates Engine Off (Resting) 12.6V - 12.8V Battery is fully charged. Engine Off (Resting) 12.4V Battery is about 75% charged. Engine Off (Resting) 12.0V or lower Battery is discharged; may need recharging or replacement. Engine Running 13.7V - 14.7V Alternator is charging correctly. Engine Running Below 13.7V Alternator is undercharging; may be failing. Engine Running Above 14.7V Alternator is overcharging; can damage battery and electronics.
117
Share

can you drive a car if the wheel bearing gone

No, you should not drive a car if a wheel bearing has failed. It is extremely dangerous and risks a complete wheel separation, leading to a loss of control and a serious accident. A wheel bearing is a crucial component that allows the wheel to spin smoothly with minimal friction. When it fails, the wheel is no longer securely connected to the vehicle. The risks escalate quickly. Initially, you might hear a loud growling or rumbling noise that gets louder with speed. This is followed by excessive vibration in the steering wheel or the vehicle's floor. As the bearing deteriorates, it causes play or looseness in the wheel assembly, leading to imprecise steering and uneven tire wear. The final stage of failure can cause the wheel to seize up or detach entirely from the axle. Symptom Stage Primary Risk Potential Consequence Early (Hum/Grind) Component Damage Accelerated wear on hub, CV joint, and tires. Intermediate (Vibration/Play) Control Compromise Unsafe handling, especially in corners or during braking. Critical (Loud Grinding/Knocking) Catastrophic Failure Wheel seizure or detachment, causing a crash. The only safe action is to stop driving immediately and have the car towed to a repair shop. The cost of a tow and a new wheel bearing is insignificant compared to the potential for a life-threatening accident. Diagnosing a bad bearing is straightforward for a mechanic, and replacing it is a standard repair that restores the vehicle's safety.
116
Share
Cookie
Cookie Settings
© 2025 Servanan International Pte. Ltd.